For a few years during my early childhood, we lived in a large house in the desert suburbs of Tehran. It was a desolate neighborhood with a planned shopping center, several planned streets, our house, and a real estate office. It puzzled me to watch my father and the real estate man run their fingers across the big map on the wall and talk about "the boulevard," "the bathhouse," "the fountain square."
"Where is the fountain square?" I would ask on the way back from tea at the real estate office.
"You are walking on it," my father would say. I looked down and saw dust, pebbles, and thorny desert weed that even the roaming goat herds left alone. My father was right though. One day I was able to see the fountain square, and as I grew older, I saw more and more of what had been invisible before.
Even though the settlement was growing, my mother was uncomfortable living in such an isolated place. The police station close by was no consolation; the desert was too large to watch. My father tipped the patrolmen now and then to keep them interested in our safety, but he was away too much and the tips weren't enough.
The nights when my father was away until late, my mother and I kept away the chill of fear by roasting pumpkin seeds in the kitchen. But after a while even pumpkin seeds weren't enough protection. I wasn't sure what it was we were scared of.
"Burglars," my mother had said. Burglars were humanoids whose faces were shiny bubbles of tar; they slithered underground like earthworms and crept over walls like lizards. The only weapon useful against them was the heavy pick handle my father kept under his pillow. My great-uncle Khandaii, a retired officer of the famous Cossack Brigade, had offered his Colt pistol. But side arms were illegal and we would rather be robbed than deal with the secret police.
The solution came knocking on our door one starlit evening. Two teenage boys stood outside the gate holding a gunnysack that wriggled and growled.
"What is it?" my mother asked.
"Khanoum, your husband is away a lot and this area is not safe. You need a good guard dog." My mother stepped back slightly. Dogs are najes (unclean) to many Iranians. Undaunted, the boys said they would like to come in and close the gate so the dog could be shown. My mother was reluctant but curious, and she knew I would pester her.
"Let the poor beast out so it can breathe a minute," my mother said. The boys had been clever to put the dog in the sack. They upended the sack over the garden sod. With a yelp and a growl the puppy fell out. A few seconds to recover from the tumble and he was on his feet assessing his surroundings. He did not wish to run away; it was too dark and scary, but he kept growling just the same in case he had misjudged our characters.
"Where did you get him?" my mother asked.
"In the jube (irrigation duct). The water master was about to run water through and he would have drowned." The puppy had stopped growling. He had just finished nibbling on himself and had settled comfortably with is chin on the ground, eyeing the conversation.
"Only eight rials," one of the boys said.
My mother hadn't mentioned anything about buying the dog, but she countered with, "Two rials, I am short on shopping money."
"But Mom, you said you had saved...," I started to say.
"Go sit inside," she ordered. I did not obey, but stayed quiet from then on.
"It will grow to be a very big dog. You can tell by the size of the ears," one boy said. After all, elephants have big ears.
"Three rials. If you want you can want, if you don't want you don't have to want (take it or leave it)."
"Five rials and we won't have to put it back in the jube."
The puppy was scratching himself behind the ear and grunting in syncopated rhythm.
"Go get my money," my mother told me, but I was already halfway back with her coin purse. She took out three rials and extended them to the boys. They stepped back, offended.
"We said five rials," they sniffed.
"I said three rials," my mother said.
The boys conferred. Finally one of them said, "We have twenty rials to go to the movies, but we need two bus tickets to get there. We need at least four rials." My mother sighed and pulled out a ten-rial piece.
"Do you have change?" She was testing them. The boys searched themselves, but all they had was the twenty-rial bill. They looked up crestfallen.
"Keep the change. Buy yourselves some pumpkin seeds at the movies," she said. The boys leaped in joy and vanished. I would see them again in a year.
When my father came home, I was already asleep. Usually my mother let me stay up to keep her company, but that night she put me to bed early so I wouldn't botch her little trick on my father. She let him go through the nightly security inspection of the house without telling him about the puppy. I woke up to my father's yelp and a crash. He ran back panting and stumbling, one stuck foot still dragging my tricycle. "Get the pick handle," he stammered. "There's someone in the coal bin."
The dog lived in the coal bin at the far end of the yard. There, he was protected from the elements and wasn't close enough to the house to make our residence unclean. He grew to be very big. I wonder if he didn't look big because I was so little, but witness the following dialog between my Aunt Tooran and her husband Farabi:
Tooran: "Jafar's dog is monstrous. I have never seen one so big."
Farabi: "When I was a boy in the village, Hashem Khan kept a guard dog that was perhaps bigger. It may have been as big as a small mule."
Tooran: "Then it was not bigger, because Jafar's dog is as big as a large mule."
It would be an insult to humanity and to Islam to honor a dog with a name. The dog was referred to as "The Dog" in conversation. But it was hard to get the animal's attention with this word, so whenever the dog's presence became necessary, he was summoned by a mnemonic I often used: "Hapoo," kidspeak for "one who barks."
Each morning, Hapoo emerged from the coal bin and agitated his fur into giving up a giant cloud of coal dust. When the air cleared, there remained a yawning stretch of black and white dog. By the time we finished breakfast, the yawn would be completed and Hapoo would walk up to the gate and wait to be let out. He would return at midmorning and stay home until midafternoon, when my father came back for lunch. The agreement was that the dog would always be home after sundown.
Hapoo was an excellent watchdog. He kept away the burglars, the mailman, the garbage man, the waterman, the meter reader, the newspaperman, the census taker, and all the vendors. He was also very successful at keeping away friends and relatives. Whenever friends came to see us, they would call from Agha Ali's store down the street to remind us to chain the dog. It wasn't enough to assure them that the dog did not bite, because he did bite. He bit me regularly whenever I tried to ride him.
What the friends feared more than dog bite, though, was dog hair. Repeated ablutions are necessary to cleanse the effects of contact with a dog. Clothes may have to be thrown away. Give a parched Iranian the choice between a glass of water sniffed by a dog and a glass of radioactive waste, and he will have to think about it.
My father used to amaze his audience with how Americans live with their dogs. He told us dogs are routinely given names in America and that in their grocery stores there is always a section that has dog food and dog toys in it. The relatives were much aghast with surprise. How could anyone make money selling dog food? What a waste of human labor to make food for dogs?
Aunt Tooran asked if dogs were allowed in stores and bathhouses. My father explained about special dogs like police dogs and seeing-eye dogs having special privileges. This drew great admiration from the relatives. He said bathhouses were not common in America, but that dogs were given baths with special dog soaps. This drew guffaws from his audience. He also mentioned a dog named Lassie who was so well trained she acted in movies. This had to be a movie trick; surely there was a human inside a dog costume. But my father explained about King Kong and how obvious it was that the beast was not real. He could tell the difference between real beasts and costumes; Lassie was a real dog.
"Do they have dog universities in America?" Aunt Monavar quipped. An older cousin had just returned with a US degree, and Aunt Monavar was having difficulty adjusting to the new order.
My father said, "No, I saw something even stranger. I saw a woman kiss a dog on the mouth."
Aunt Monavar spat her tea back in the glass and ran out to vomit.
Our dog was sterilized weekly with a can of DDT. This was the wonder powder with the miraculous cleansing effect. I was told that the powder was extremely deadly and never to go near the can. My mother often wondered out loud if DDT did not hurt the dog. "No, dogs are much tougher than humans," my father said. What kept the dog alive was his mighty shake. Immediately after the dusting, he sent powerful waves down his body, scattering all the DDT dust for his masters to breathe. I know he shook off most of the poison because his fleas never left him.
The weekly dustings helped keep the relatives from banishing us altogether, but during the four years Hapoo lived with us, their visits to our house were limited. The dog showed his resentment of their snobbery by breaking his chain and attacking them. This was mostly for show. He never broke his chains unless one of his masters was around to beat him back. The relatives were never satisfied, however, and always entered our house backs and palms to the wall, muttering prayers.
"Where is the fountain square?" I would ask on the way back from tea at the real estate office.
"You are walking on it," my father would say. I looked down and saw dust, pebbles, and thorny desert weed that even the roaming goat herds left alone. My father was right though. One day I was able to see the fountain square, and as I grew older, I saw more and more of what had been invisible before.
Even though the settlement was growing, my mother was uncomfortable living in such an isolated place. The police station close by was no consolation; the desert was too large to watch. My father tipped the patrolmen now and then to keep them interested in our safety, but he was away too much and the tips weren't enough.
The nights when my father was away until late, my mother and I kept away the chill of fear by roasting pumpkin seeds in the kitchen. But after a while even pumpkin seeds weren't enough protection. I wasn't sure what it was we were scared of.
"Burglars," my mother had said. Burglars were humanoids whose faces were shiny bubbles of tar; they slithered underground like earthworms and crept over walls like lizards. The only weapon useful against them was the heavy pick handle my father kept under his pillow. My great-uncle Khandaii, a retired officer of the famous Cossack Brigade, had offered his Colt pistol. But side arms were illegal and we would rather be robbed than deal with the secret police.
The solution came knocking on our door one starlit evening. Two teenage boys stood outside the gate holding a gunnysack that wriggled and growled.
"What is it?" my mother asked.
"Khanoum, your husband is away a lot and this area is not safe. You need a good guard dog." My mother stepped back slightly. Dogs are najes (unclean) to many Iranians. Undaunted, the boys said they would like to come in and close the gate so the dog could be shown. My mother was reluctant but curious, and she knew I would pester her.
"Let the poor beast out so it can breathe a minute," my mother said. The boys had been clever to put the dog in the sack. They upended the sack over the garden sod. With a yelp and a growl the puppy fell out. A few seconds to recover from the tumble and he was on his feet assessing his surroundings. He did not wish to run away; it was too dark and scary, but he kept growling just the same in case he had misjudged our characters.
"Where did you get him?" my mother asked.
"In the jube (irrigation duct). The water master was about to run water through and he would have drowned." The puppy had stopped growling. He had just finished nibbling on himself and had settled comfortably with is chin on the ground, eyeing the conversation.
"Only eight rials," one of the boys said.
My mother hadn't mentioned anything about buying the dog, but she countered with, "Two rials, I am short on shopping money."
"But Mom, you said you had saved...," I started to say.
"Go sit inside," she ordered. I did not obey, but stayed quiet from then on.
"It will grow to be a very big dog. You can tell by the size of the ears," one boy said. After all, elephants have big ears.
"Three rials. If you want you can want, if you don't want you don't have to want (take it or leave it)."
"Five rials and we won't have to put it back in the jube."
The puppy was scratching himself behind the ear and grunting in syncopated rhythm.
"Go get my money," my mother told me, but I was already halfway back with her coin purse. She took out three rials and extended them to the boys. They stepped back, offended.
"We said five rials," they sniffed.
"I said three rials," my mother said.
The boys conferred. Finally one of them said, "We have twenty rials to go to the movies, but we need two bus tickets to get there. We need at least four rials." My mother sighed and pulled out a ten-rial piece.
"Do you have change?" She was testing them. The boys searched themselves, but all they had was the twenty-rial bill. They looked up crestfallen.
"Keep the change. Buy yourselves some pumpkin seeds at the movies," she said. The boys leaped in joy and vanished. I would see them again in a year.
When my father came home, I was already asleep. Usually my mother let me stay up to keep her company, but that night she put me to bed early so I wouldn't botch her little trick on my father. She let him go through the nightly security inspection of the house without telling him about the puppy. I woke up to my father's yelp and a crash. He ran back panting and stumbling, one stuck foot still dragging my tricycle. "Get the pick handle," he stammered. "There's someone in the coal bin."
The dog lived in the coal bin at the far end of the yard. There, he was protected from the elements and wasn't close enough to the house to make our residence unclean. He grew to be very big. I wonder if he didn't look big because I was so little, but witness the following dialog between my Aunt Tooran and her husband Farabi:
Tooran: "Jafar's dog is monstrous. I have never seen one so big."
Farabi: "When I was a boy in the village, Hashem Khan kept a guard dog that was perhaps bigger. It may have been as big as a small mule."
Tooran: "Then it was not bigger, because Jafar's dog is as big as a large mule."
It would be an insult to humanity and to Islam to honor a dog with a name. The dog was referred to as "The Dog" in conversation. But it was hard to get the animal's attention with this word, so whenever the dog's presence became necessary, he was summoned by a mnemonic I often used: "Hapoo," kidspeak for "one who barks."
Each morning, Hapoo emerged from the coal bin and agitated his fur into giving up a giant cloud of coal dust. When the air cleared, there remained a yawning stretch of black and white dog. By the time we finished breakfast, the yawn would be completed and Hapoo would walk up to the gate and wait to be let out. He would return at midmorning and stay home until midafternoon, when my father came back for lunch. The agreement was that the dog would always be home after sundown.
Hapoo was an excellent watchdog. He kept away the burglars, the mailman, the garbage man, the waterman, the meter reader, the newspaperman, the census taker, and all the vendors. He was also very successful at keeping away friends and relatives. Whenever friends came to see us, they would call from Agha Ali's store down the street to remind us to chain the dog. It wasn't enough to assure them that the dog did not bite, because he did bite. He bit me regularly whenever I tried to ride him.
What the friends feared more than dog bite, though, was dog hair. Repeated ablutions are necessary to cleanse the effects of contact with a dog. Clothes may have to be thrown away. Give a parched Iranian the choice between a glass of water sniffed by a dog and a glass of radioactive waste, and he will have to think about it.
My father used to amaze his audience with how Americans live with their dogs. He told us dogs are routinely given names in America and that in their grocery stores there is always a section that has dog food and dog toys in it. The relatives were much aghast with surprise. How could anyone make money selling dog food? What a waste of human labor to make food for dogs?
Aunt Tooran asked if dogs were allowed in stores and bathhouses. My father explained about special dogs like police dogs and seeing-eye dogs having special privileges. This drew great admiration from the relatives. He said bathhouses were not common in America, but that dogs were given baths with special dog soaps. This drew guffaws from his audience. He also mentioned a dog named Lassie who was so well trained she acted in movies. This had to be a movie trick; surely there was a human inside a dog costume. But my father explained about King Kong and how obvious it was that the beast was not real. He could tell the difference between real beasts and costumes; Lassie was a real dog.
"Do they have dog universities in America?" Aunt Monavar quipped. An older cousin had just returned with a US degree, and Aunt Monavar was having difficulty adjusting to the new order.
My father said, "No, I saw something even stranger. I saw a woman kiss a dog on the mouth."
Aunt Monavar spat her tea back in the glass and ran out to vomit.
Our dog was sterilized weekly with a can of DDT. This was the wonder powder with the miraculous cleansing effect. I was told that the powder was extremely deadly and never to go near the can. My mother often wondered out loud if DDT did not hurt the dog. "No, dogs are much tougher than humans," my father said. What kept the dog alive was his mighty shake. Immediately after the dusting, he sent powerful waves down his body, scattering all the DDT dust for his masters to breathe. I know he shook off most of the poison because his fleas never left him.
The weekly dustings helped keep the relatives from banishing us altogether, but during the four years Hapoo lived with us, their visits to our house were limited. The dog showed his resentment of their snobbery by breaking his chain and attacking them. This was mostly for show. He never broke his chains unless one of his masters was around to beat him back. The relatives were never satisfied, however, and always entered our house backs and palms to the wall, muttering prayers.

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