View Full Version : Fashion
RedWine
11-26-2005, 12:27 PM
The term fashion applies to a characteristic means of expression or presentation; fashions may follow trends, in which they gain or lose popularity.
A fashion is also a design (as in a 'curious fashion') or a method (a 'cruel fashion').
"Fashion" is also a verb meaning to make into a required form.
Fields prone to fashions
Fashions are social psychology phenomena common to many fields of human activity and thinking.
Although that concept frequently applies to clothes and other aspects of appearance, it can apply also to:
music, art, politics, philosophy
and even to mathematics, the choice of programming techniques,
and also economic trends, such as those studied in behavioral finance,
Fashion exists in the interstices of aesthetics with innovation, coupled with pleasing details and expenses
Fashion and variation
The European idea of fashion as a personal statement rather than a cultural expression begins in the 16th century: ten portraits of German or Italian gentlemen may show ten entirely different hats. But the local culture still set the bounds, as Albrecht Dürer recorded in his actual or composite contrast of Nuremberg and Venetian fashions at the close of the 15th century (illustration, right). Fashions among upper-class Europeans began to move in synchronicity in the 18th century; though colors and patterns of textiles changed from year to year, (Thornton), the cut of a gentleman's coat and the length of his waistcoat, or the pattern to which a lady's dress was cut changed more slowly. Men's fashions derived from military models, and changes in a European male silhouette are galvanized in theatres of European war, where gentleman officers had opportunities to make notes of foreign styles: an example is the "Stein***k" cravat (see Cravat).
The pace of change picked up in the 1780s with the publication of French engravings that showed the latest Paris styles. By 1800, all Western Europeans were dressing alike: local variation became first a sign of provincial culture, and then a badge of the conservative peasant (James Laver; Fernand Braudel).
Fashion in clothes has allowed wearers to express emotion or solidarity with other people for millennia. Modern Westerners have a wide choice available in the selection of their clothes. What a person chooses to wear can reflect that person's personality or likes. When people who have cultural status start to wear new or different clothes a fashion trend may start; people who like or respect them may start to wear clothes of a similar style.
Fashions may vary significantly within a society according to age, social class, generation, occupation and geography as well as over time. If, for example, an older person dresses according to the fashion of young people, he or she may look ridiculous in the eyes of both young and older people. The term "fashion victim" refers to someone who slavishly follows the current fashions (implementations of fashion)..
One can regard the system of sporting various fashions as a fashion language incorporating various fashion statements using a grammar of fashion.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/8/8f/ADurerNuremburgVenetianWomen.jpg/280px-ADurerNuremburgVenetianWomen.jpg
Michellica
11-26-2005, 12:28 PM
hamino az bar konam exam e fashion studies o ghabool misham migi amoo? :D
RedWine
11-26-2005, 12:29 PM
Fashion and the process of change
Fashion, by definition, changes constantly. The change may proceed more rapidly than in most other fields of human activity (language, thought, etc). For some, modern fast-paced change in fashion embodies many of the negative aspects of capitalism: it results in waste and encourages people qua consumers to buy things unnecessarily. Others, especially young people, enjoy the diversity that changing fashion can apparently provide, seeing the constant change as a way to satisfy their desire to experience "new" and "interesting" things. Note too though that fashion can change to enforce uniformity, as in the case where so-called Mao suits became the national uniform of Mainland China.
Materially affluent societies can offer a variety of different fashions, in clothes or accessories, to choose from. At the same time there remains an equal or larger range designated (at least currently) 'out of fashion'. (These or similar fashions may cyclically come back 'into fashion' in due course, and remain 'in fashion' again for a while.)
Practically every aspect of appearance that can be changed has been changed at some time. In the past, new discoveries and lesser-known parts of the world could provide an impetus to change fashions based on the exotic: Europe in the eighteenth or nineteenth centuries, for example, might favour things Turkish at one time, things Chinese at another, and things Japanese at a third. The global village has reduced the options of exotic novelty in more recent times.
Fashion houses and their associated fashion designers, as well as high-status consumers (including celebrities), appear to have some role in determining the rates and directions of fashion change.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a2/Fashion_in_the_late_18th_century.PNG
Fashion and status
Fashion can suggest or signal status in a social group. Groups with high cultural status like to keep 'in fashion' to display their position; people who do not keep 'in fashion' within a so-called "style tribe" can risk shunning (see also peer pressure). Because keeping 'in fashion' often requires considerable amounts of money, fashion can be used to show off wealth (compare conspicuous consumption). Adherence to fashion trends can thus form an index of social affluence and an indicator of social mobility.
Fashion can help attract a partner. As well as showing certain features of a person's personality that appeal to prospective mates, keeping up with fashion can advertise a person's status to such candidates. Perhaps even more importantly, it sends a signal of superiority to potential competitors of the same gender, who are frequently better informed about what's fashionable than the potential mates are. Conversely, a person who exhibits a fashion style that rejects or deliberately tries to offend the current trend may also have an advantage in finding other like-minded individuals.
"Fashion sense" consists of the ability to tell what clothing and/or accessories look good and what doesn't. Since the entire notion of fashion depends on subjectivity, so does the question of who possesses "fashion sense". Some people style themselves as "fashion consultants" and charge clients to help the latter choose what to wear. Designers show the public what is new and in style by using fashion models to display the clothing. Image consultants help people revamp or create fashion sense.
Fashion can operate differently depending on gender, or it can promote homogeneity as in unisex styles.
[edit]
Classification of fashions
Ethnically-based fashions:
Chinoiserie
Orientalism
Primitivism
Modern underground fashion:
Cyberpunk fashion
Punk fashion
Gothic fashion
Death rock fashion
Black metal fashion
Industrial fashion
BDSM fashion
urban fashion
The ultimate world capital of fashion is Paris, which is home to the premier fashion houses of the world including Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Louis Vuitton.
RedWine
11-26-2005, 12:30 PM
In this Thread ,i am just tryin to show all of you ,what is fashion !
RedWine
11-26-2005, 12:36 PM
Chinoiserie refers to an artistic style which reflects Chinese influence and is characterized through the use of elaborate decoration and intricate patterns. Its popularity peaked around the middle of the 18th century.
From the Renaissance to the 18th century Western designers attempted to imitate the technical sophistication of Chinese ceramics with only partial success. Direct imitation of Chinese designs began in the late 17th century and peaking in waves, especially Rococo Chinoiserie, ca 1740-1770. Earliest hints of Chinoiserie appear, in the early 17th century, in the nations with active East India Companies, Holland and England, then by mid-17th century, Portugal. Tin-glazed pottery made at Delft and other Dutch towns adopted genuine blue-and-white Ming decoration from the early 17th century, and early ceramic wares at Meissen and other centers of true porcelain naturally imitated Chinese shapes for dishes, vases and tea wares. But in the true Chinoiserie décor fairyland, mandarins lived in fanciful mountainous landscapes with cobweb bridges, carried flower parasols, lolled in flimsy bamboo pavilions haunted by dragons and phoenixes, while monkeys swung from scrolling borders.
Pleasure pavilions in "Chinese taste" appeared in the formal parterres of late Baroque and Rococo German palaces, and in tile panels at Aranjuez near Madrid. Thomas Chippendale's mahogany tea tables and china cabinets, especially, were embellished with fretwork glazing and railings, ca 1753 - 70, but sober homages to early Xing scholars' furnishings were also naturalized, as the tang evolved into a mid-Georgian side table and squared slat-back armchairs suited English gentlemen as well as Chinese scholars. Not every adaptation of Chinese design principles falls within mainstream "chinoiserie." Chinoiserie media included "japanned" ware imitations of lacquer and painted tin (tôle) ware that imitated japanning, early painted wallpapers in sheets, and ceramic figurines and table ornaments.
Small pagodas appeared on chimneypieces and full-sized ones in gardens. Kew has a magnificent garden pagoda designed by Sir William Chambers. Though the rise of a more serious approach in Neoclassicism from the 1770s onward tended to squelch such Oriental folly, at the height of Regency "Grecian" furnishings, the Prince Regent came down with a case of Brighton Pavilion, and Chamberlain's Worcester china manufactory imitated gaudy "Imari" wares. Upscale houses, like the Casa Loma, sometimes feature an entire guest room decorated in the chinoiserie style, complete with Chinese-styled bed, phoenix-themed wallpaper, and china.
Later exoticisms added imaginary Turkish themes, where a "diwan" became a sofa. (See Sezincote, Gloucestershire.)
The term is also used in literary criticism to describe a mannered "Chinese-esqe" style of writing, such as that employed by Ernest Bramah in his Kai Lung stories, or Barry Hughart in his Master LI & Number 10 Ox novels.
RedWine
11-26-2005, 12:37 PM
Orientalism is the study of Near and Far Eastern societies and cultures by Westerners. It can also refer to the imitation or depiction of aspects of Eastern cultures in the West by writers, designers and artists.
In the former meaning the term is becoming obsolete, increasingly being used only to refer to the study of the East by Americans and Europeans shaped by the attitudes of the era of European imperialism in the 18th and 19th centuries. Because of this, the term Orientalism has come to acquire negative connotations in some quarters, implying old-fashioned and prejudiced outsider interpretations of Eastern cultures and peoples. This viewpoint was most famously articulated by Edward Said in his book Orientalism 1978 In the book he was critical of the work of modern scholars including Princeton Professor Bernard Lewis.
Orientalism in the arts
Imitations of Oriental styles
Chinesischer Turm in the Englischer Garten of Munich. Initial structure built 1789-1790Similar ambivalence is evident in art and literature. From the Renaissance to the 18th century Western designers attempted to imitate the technical sophistication of Chinese ceramics with only partial success. Chinoiserie is the catch-all term for the fashion for Chinese themes in decoration in Western Europe, beginning in the late 17th century and peaking in waves, especially Rococo Chinoiserie, ca 1740-1770. Early hints of Chinoiserie appear, in the 17th century, in the nations with active East India Companies, Holland and England. Tin-glazed pottery made at Delft and other Dutch towns adopted genuine blue-and-white Ming decoration from the early 17th century, and early ceramic wares at Meißen and other centers of true porcelain imitated Chinese shapes for dishes, vases and teawares (see Chinese export porcelain). But in the true Chinoiserie décor fairyland, mandarins lived in fanciful mountainous landscapes with cobweb bridges, carried flower parasols, lolled in flimsy bamboo pavilions haunted by dragons and phoenixes, while monkeys swung from scrolling borders.
Pleasure pavilions in "Chinese taste" appeared in the formal parterres of late Baroque and Rococo German palaces, and in tile panels at Aranjuez near Madrid. Thomas Chippendale's mahogany tea tables and china cabinets, especially, were embellished with fretwork glazing and railings, ca 1753 - 70, but sober homages to early Xing scholars' furnishings were also naturalized, as the tang evolved into a mid- Georgian side table and squared slat-back armchairs suited English gentlemen as well as Chinese scholars. Not every adaptation of Chinese design principles falls within mainstream "chinoiserie." Chinoiserie media included imitations of lacquer and painted tin (tôle) ware that imitated japanning, early painted wallpapers in sheets, and ceramic figurines and table ornaments. Small pagodas appeared on chimneypieces and full-sized ones in gardens. Kew has a magnificent garden pagoda designed by Sir William Chambers.
After 1860, Japonaiserie, sparked by the arrival of Japanese woodblock prints, became an important influence in the western arts. The paintings of James McNeill Whistler and his "Peacock Room" are some of the finest works of the genre; other examples include the Gamble House and other buildings by California architects Greene and Greene.
Rostam
11-26-2005, 07:56 PM
Chizehai jalabi dar in gesmat ast,
article ha khoob hastand.
Thxs.
RedWine
11-27-2005, 10:06 AM
Chanel
The House of Chanel, more commonly known as Chanel, is a Parisian fashion house in France.
Founded by Coco Chanel by 1909, the small shop selling ladies headwear had moved to the upmarket Rue Cambon within a year. The house became especially famous with its signature Chanel No. 5 fragrance - so called as it was the fifth attempt at creating a Chanel perfume that Coco Chanel liked - and the popular Chanel suit, an elegant creation comprised of a knee-length s***t and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of woven wool with black trim and gold buttons and worn with large costume-pearl necklaces.
After Chanel No. 5 was launched in 1923, Coco Chanel's fashions became well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike. Chanel took to living at the Hôtel Ritz, and her suite of residence is named the Coco Chanel Suite even today. The German designer Karl Lagerfeld now presides over the house.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/e/e3/Chanel.jpg/250px-Chanel.jpg
The House of Chanel logo
RedWine
11-28-2005, 08:32 AM
Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (born August 1, 1936 in Oran, Algeria) is a French fashion designer.
Early career
Born to insurance-company manager Charles Saint-Laurent and his socialite wife, Lucienne Mathieu, members of a family from Alsace-Lorraine that settled in North Africa during the Franco-Prussian War, Saint Laurent left home at the age of 17 to work for the designer Christian Dior. Following the death of Dior in 1957, Saint-Laurent at the age of 21 was put in charge of effort of saving the Dior house from financial ruin. Saint-Laurent's designs together, with his lover Pierre Bergé's financial acumen, helped save the firm. The couple split romantically in 1976 but remained business partners.
Military service
Shortly after this success he was conscripted to serve in the French army during the Algerian war of independence. After 20 days the stress of being hazed by fellow soldiers led the fragile Saint Laurent to be institutionalized in a French mental hospital, where he underwent psychiatric treatment, including electroshock therapy, for a nervous breakdown.
The House of Yves Saint-Laurent
In the wake of his nervous breakdown, Saint Laurent was released from Dior and started his own label together with Pierre Bergé with the now-famous initials of YSL. During the 1960s and 1970s the firm popularized fashion trends such as the beatnik look, tweed suits, tight pants and tall, thigh-high boots. Among his muses were Loulou de La Falaise, the daughter of a French marquis and an Anglo-Irish fashion model, Betty Catroux, the half-Brazilian daughter of an American diplomat and wife of a French decorator, and Catherine Deneuve, the iconic french actress.
In 1993, the Saint-Laurent fashion house was sold to the pharmaceuticals company Sanofi for approximately $600,000,000. In 1999 Gucci bought the YSL brand and Tom Ford designed the ready-to-wear collection while Saint-Laurent designed the haute couture collection. Since his retirement in 1998 Saint-Laurent has become increasingly reclusive and has spent a much of his time at his house in Marrakech, Morocco.
In 2002, dogged by years of poor health, drug abuse, depression, alcoholism, criticisms of YSL designs, and problems with lead designer Tom Ford, Saint-Laurent and Gucci closed the illustrious couture house of YSL.
The pret-a-porter line is still being produced under the direction of Stefano Pilati after Tom Ford retired in 2004.
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/511/296dp.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
me_89
11-28-2005, 07:48 PM
im a fashinable person i tink
RedWine
11-29-2005, 09:42 AM
Givenchy
The History
Once upon a time the world’s great fashion designers formed an extremely closed circle of nimble fingered, white-coated craftsmen. Season after season in their tailor’s workshops they redefined Parisian fashion and worldwide trends. Hubert de Givenchy was one of them.
Born in 1927, at the age of seventeen Hubert James Taffin de Givenchy left his birthplace in Beauvais for Paris, at a time when the couturier business was still passed on from master to apprentice. He learned from Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, Lucien Lelong (recommended by Christian Dior) and in Elsa Schiaparelli’s famous salons on Place Vendôme.
Foreseeing relaxed chic and the democratisation of luxury, which together marked the end of the century, in 1952 Givenchy launched «separates», light s***ts and puff-sleeved blouses made from raw cotton – previously reserved for fittings only. Two years later Hubert de Givenchy was the first major fashion designer to present a luxury ready-to-wear line, «Givenchy Université». More than any other, this was a designer who maintained close relations with his famous clients. No surprise there, he wanted to dress women. All women. From Paris to New York, Hubert de Givenchy’s fashions came out of the salons and down into the street. In 1953 one of Hubert de Givenchy’s designs was featured on the cover of Life magazine.
The best dressed women in the world were keen to be part of it – Lauren Bacall, Babe Paley, Greta Garbo, Elizabeth Taylor, Marlène Dietrich, Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis, Princess Grace of Monaco and Wallis Simpson, for whom the designer created special covers, to preserve the Duchess’s envied orders from prying eyes. They were made in Windsor blue.
In 1953 Hubert de Givenchy received the wrong Miss Hepburn, because it was Audrey Hepburn, and not, as planned, the great Katharine, who arrived for a fitting in a tied-up T-shirt, tight trousers, sandals and a gondolier hat. The result was a relationship that lasted forty years, with the Anglo-American actress playing the role of the designer’s ambassador, both off screen and on, in great classic films such as Sabrina, Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Funny Face.
Hepburn entered the circle of the world’s smartest women and Hubert de Givenchy’s fame spread worldwide. Together the designer and his muse defined a new kind of beauty: exhaustive perfection of lines, narrow hips, willowy body and swan’s neck ….. The sixties ingenuous style was born chez Givenchy.
In 1957, Hubert de Givenchy again made the headlines by using Hepburn to promote his first perfume, L’Interdit. It was the first time that an actress had allowed her face to be used in perfumery. Success was enormous, with the American market immediately won over. This was when the designer’s clientele became almost exclusively Anglo-Saxon.
The information era made Hubert de Givenchy a superstar fashion designer – immortalised by Irving Penn and Richard Avedon, sketched by René Gruau and Christian Bérard – his supreme elegance became in 1973 the ideal example for his men’s fashion line, «Gentleman Givenchy». Even today that look remains a benchmark.
Having delayed launching licences on the advice of his friend and mentor, the legendary designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy made up his mind to do so in the seventies, to ensure the lasting nature of his costly haute couture collections. The house’s diversification then happened quite naturally with the designer running his aesthete’s eye over collections of table linen, furnishing fabrics, shoes, jewellery and even, in 1976, a car: Ford’s Lincoln Continental.
Hubert de Givenchy travelled widely. From Washington to Tokyo, promotional gala to institutional exhibition, the designer saw things big. And he saw further. He handled globalisation as the perfect man of the world that he is. Givenchy was always a man of his time. In 1988, he felt the wind turn towards major groups, and joined LVMH Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy at the very time when the world leader in luxury goods started to re-consider the way in which business is run, on the eve of the new millennium.
After retiring in 1995, Hubert de Givenchy was succeeded by young British designers. John Galliano (in January 1996), Alexander McQueen (in October 1996) and Julien MacDonald (in March 2001): three fashion non-conformists, just like Hubert de Givenchy when he first started. In 1956 Hubert de Givenchy was the first designer to present his collections simultaneously to the press and clients. Half a century later the young bloods from over the channel have successfully taken up the baton, with their colourful shows still being written about extensively as they flatter a whole new generation of couture clients.
In December 2003, the British tailor Ozwald Boateng was appointed creative director for Givenchy Homme and in March 2005 the Italian designer Riccardo Tisci was appointed creative director for the Givenchy Femme haute couture and ready-to-wear collections.
Givenchy from 1927 to present
1927
Hubert James Taffin de Givenchy is born in Beauvais, France.
1945
Aged seventeen, inspired by his mother’s glossies, prompted by his seamstress cousins and brimming with youthful exuberance, Hubert de Givenchy leaves Beauvais for Paris. He begins his apprenticeship as a draughtsman for the couturier Jacques Fath.
1946
Hubert de Givenchy is recommended by the celebrated surrealist illustrator Christian Bérard for a design post at Robert Piguet.
1947
Word-of-mouth about the dashing young man at Piguet spreads like wildfire in the hermetic world of Parisian haute couture, and it isn’t long before Hubert de Givenchy leaves Piguet for Lucien Lelong, upon the recommendation of the newly-acquainted Christian Dior. Six months later, illustrator René Gruau puts a word in for Givenchy at Elsa Schiaparelli, where the young man becomes the couturiere’s first assistant and the director of her celebrated Place Vendôme boutique.
1951
After four years of collaboration, Hubert de Givenchy resigns from Schiaparelli, intent on opening his own couture house. The somewhat overbearing couturiere thunderously dismisses him as «yet another bankruptcy».
1952
Hubert de Givenchy opens his own maison at n° 8, rue Alfred de Vigny, overlooking Paris’s Parc Monceau. On February 2nd, he presents his first couture collection, featuring the now famous ‘Bettina’ blouse as a nod to his newly appointed press relations director, the celebrated fifties beauty Bettina Graziani. The collection’s revolutionary concept of ‘separates’- lightweight s***ts and billowing blouses- was unheard of in the tightly corseted and heavily embroidered world of haute couture at the time. The couturier’s use of ‘shirting’- a coarse cotton akin to the toile used for fittings - further heralded the casual chic that would come to define the second half of the century. Life magazine features a Givenchy look on its cover. Clients file into the couturier’s gothic salons, which becomes known as ‘the Cathedral’. Early-day supermodels- Suzy Parker, Ivy Nicholson, Capucine- squabble to feature in his shows.
1953
Two decisive encounters:
• Cristóbal Balenciaga, introduced to Hubert de Givenchy at a Condé Nast cocktail in New York. The legendary Spanish couturier praises Givenchy’s organdie scarf pricked with springs of lily of the valley for its youth and freshness. Hubert de Givenchy becomes the charismatic- if not overly sociable- couturier’s closest friend and most long-standing protégé («my adopted son» Balenciaga would say) until Balenciaga’s death in 1972.
• Audrey Hepburn, who flew to Paris for a last minute makeover, her Edith Head-designed wardrobe for Sabrina having failed to please director Billy Wilder. Having been announced a certain «miss Hepburn», Hubert de Givenchy expects the movie’s lead, Katharine Hepburn, at the fitting. Instead, the as yet unknown British actress saunters in wearing black leggings, a knotted T-shirt, flat sandals and a gondolier’s hat, only to swan out with the entirety of Givenchy’s samples for his upcoming presentation. Clean lines, gamine features and long, gracile limbs: the ingénue of the sixties was born at Givenchy. Hepburn wears Givenchy in Sabrina (dir: Billy Wilder; 1954), Love in the Afternoon (dir: Billy Wilder; 1957), Funny Face (dir: Stanley Donen; 1957), Breakfast at Tiffany’s (dir: Blake Edwards; 1961), Charade (dir: Stanley Donen; 1963), Paris when it Sizzles (dir: Richard Quine; 1963), How to Steal a Million Dollars and Live Happily Ever After (dir: William Wyler; 1965) and Bloodline (dir: Terence Young; 1979).
1954
Upon the death of Jacques Fath, French entrepreneur Jean Prouvost asks Hubert de Givenchy to develop the first collection of high-end women’s ready-to-wear to be designed by a couturier. «Jacques Fath Université» thus becomes «Givenchy Université». The line is manufactured in Paris’s 10th arrondissement garment district on industrial sewing machines imported from the United States.
RedWine
11-29-2005, 09:43 AM
Givenchy Part II
1956
To stall counterfeit, Cristóbal Balenciaga and Hubert de Givenchy take the initiative of presenting their collections simultaneously to the clients and the press. Catwalk shows have been presented this way ever since.
1957
Hubert de Givenchy follows the advice of Balenciaga and launches his own perfumery division «Parfums Givenchy» in spite of repeated offers from american pharmaceutical giants. The fragrances are produced in Balenciaga’s factory on the outs***ts of Paris, and the perfumery division is placed under the direction of Hubert de Givenchy’s brother.
Givenchy creates «De», his first women’s fragrance, followed by «L’Interdit», a fragrance inspired by the couturier’s muse, Audrey Hepburn. It’s the first time a couturier banks in on the heady success of a Hollywood A-lister for a fragrance campaign. It’s also the last time a Hollywood heavyweight waives her fees for such an endorsement.
1958
Hubert de Givenchy presents his «baby-doll» collection to critical acclaim.
1961
Launch of Givenchy’s two first men’s fragrances «L’eau de Vétiver» and «Monsieur de Givenchy».
1961
Hubert de Givenchy designs Jacqueline Kennedy’s wardrobe for her state visit to France and dresses her for dinner with president de Gaulle in Versailles. The fittings are cloaked in secrecy: the ever-stylish First Lady is held to wear only American brands, but, true to form, chooses the diplomatic slur over the fashion faux pas. De Gaulle compares her to a Watteau oil painting.
Maison Givenchy moves to n°3, avenue George V, and opens its first Parisian boutique at the same address. Although Hubert de Givenchy first balks at the extravagant cost of his new headquarters, Balenciaga predicts that in two years he will have outgrown his ateliers.
1963
Hubert de Givenchy expands his business and buys out the whole hôtel particulier.
1965
The Givenchy Ball in Houston is the first major exhibition aimed at consolidating Hubert de Givenchy’s stronghold on the American market. Others include the Universal Exhibition in Montréal 1967 a group exhibition in San Antonio, Texas 1968 and a grand-scale tour of Givenchy fashion extravaganzas across the United States 1970
1968
Launch of the high-end ready-to-wear collection «Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique», in association with French clothing manufacturer Mendès.
1972
The Givenchy ateliers lose sleep over the famous black riding coat that H.R.H. the Duchess Of Windsor orders overnight for the duke’s funeral the next day.
1973
Hubert de Givenchy participates in the prestigious line-up of five French couturiers and five American designers staged by the late Marie Hélène de Rothschild at the Gabriel Theater in Versailles.
Givenchy launches «Gentleman Givenchy», his first men’s ready-to-wear collection. The always impeccably turned-out Hubert de Givenchy, forever on the arm of the world’s most iconic beauties, proves to be his new label’s own best marketing tool.
1978
Givenchy is awarded the Dé d’or, France’s most coveted fashion prize, for his fall/winter collection.
1980
Hubert de Givenchy is voted Personality of the Year 1979 and Most Elegant Man of the Year by The Best.
French president Valéry Giscard d’Estaing personally opposes the sale of «Parfums Givenchy» to a British conglomerate, as part of his agenda to protect French cultural heritage.
1981
«Parfums Givenchy» is sold to Veuve Clicquot champagnes.
1982
Givenchy is awarded his second Dé d’or for his spring/summer collection.
A retrospective of thirty years of design, presided by Audrey Hepburn, is staged for Givenchy at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology.
1983
Hubert de Givenchy is knighted Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur.
1984
Launch of the women’s fragrance «Ysatis». The streamlined bottle is inspired by the New York skyline.
1985
French minister of culture Jacques Lang awards Hubert de Givenchy with the Oscar of Elegance during a ceremony at the Paris Opera.
1988
Givenchy Couture is sold to luxury goods group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, following the group’s acquisition of Veuve Clicquot and Parfums Givenchy.
1991
A lavish retrospective spanning forty years of creation is staged at Paris’s Galliera Museum of Fashion and Costume.
Launch of the women’s fragrance «Amarige».
1992
Former mayor of Paris and current French President awards Hubert de Givenchy with the medal of Arts et des Lettres.
«Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique» becomes «Couture Givenchy».
1995
Hubert de Givenchy retires from the house he founded forty-three years earlier.
1996
On January 1st, British designer John Galliano is appointed as head designer of Givenchy’s haute couture and ready-to-wear lines.
On October 14th, John Galliano departs for Dior and is replaced at the helm of Givenchy by fellow British Designer of the Year and enfant terrible Alexander McQueen.
Launch of the women’s fragrance «Organza».
1999
«Gentleman Givenchy», «Couture Givenchy» and «Haute Couture» are consolidated under the single brand name «Givenchy».
Launch of the men’s fragrance «π».
2000
Launch of two women’s fragrances: «Oblique» and «Hot Couture».
2001
In March, Julien Macdonald is appointed as creative director of Givenchy.
2003
Liv Tyler becomes the face of the new women’s fragrance «Very Irresistible Givenchy».
On December 8th, British tailor Ozwald Boateng is appointed as creative director of the Givenchy men’s division (ready-to-wear and accessories).
2005
On February 28th, Italian designer Riccardo Tisci is appointed as creative director of the haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories lines.
http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/2586/givenchy5ru.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
RedWine
11-30-2005, 07:36 AM
Christian Dior (January 21, 1905 – October 24, 1957), born in Granville, was an influential French fashion designer.
In 1946, Christian Dior established his main house of couture in Paris with the backing of a textile magnate Marcel Boussac. In twelve years he expanded his business to 15 countries and employed over 2,000 people.
Dior is known mainly for the 1947 "New Look" which employed narrow shoulders, constricted waist, emphasized bust, and long, wide s***t. His designs represented consistent classic elegance, stressing the feminine look. The New Look revolutionized women's dress and reestablished Paris as the center of the fashion world. Dior spread his fashions around the world when he and his partner, Jaques Rouet, started franchises in the fashion industry. In 1953 Yves Saint-Laurent became his assistant and was destined to be his successor but was reluctantly forced to leave when the time came for his military service. On returning, after trouble with his temporary replacement Marc Bohan, he soon opened his own maison de couture once his obligations were over.
He was continually feuding with his elder brother Raymond Dior and one of his earliest childhood memories was that Raymond would always lock him down in the dark cellar beneath the house in Granville whenever he had the opportunity, then go scouring the garden searching for critters to push under the door. Once he had made his fortune he attempted to rebuy the house where he was born but the owner (Granville town council) rejected his offers. He refused to set foot in the town of Granville for the rest of his life. However, when Jean Cocteau bought the small château at Milly la Forêt (Essonne) and Christian Dior shortly afterwards bought a disused water-mill in the same village, he persuaded his brother Raymond to buy a fermette in the village of Noisy sur Ecole (Seine et Marne) only 4km away. On the rare occassions when they found themselves together it usually ended in dispute with Raymond calling his brother "filthy queer" while Christian replied with "impotent drunk."
Towards the end Christian was living a hectic life with injections to wake up in the morning, injections for his appetite, and further injections to sleep. His niece, Françoise Dior, was once his favourite (at her marriage with Count Robert-Henri de Caumont la Force it was Christian Dior who gave the bride away at the ceremony while Raymond sat drinking the time away in a local bar) but held Nazi sympathies, openly blamed his Jewish manageress who procured his medications along with a collection of young men, of being part of a Jewish plot forcing him towards his death. For once Raymond agreed with his rebel daughter, discounting the Jewish plot theory. Normally under French inheritance law, having no children or parents, Raymond should have been his logical successor but the rift provoked by Françoise caused him to disinherit his close family totally.
The plump Dior, who suffered from heart trouble, reportedly died of a heart attack while undergoing a weight-loss cure at the spa in Montecatini, Italy, in an effort to make himself more desirable to his young North African lover, singer Jacques Benita; the death reportedly occurred in the lobby of the Hotel Pace after an after-dinner canasta game. "Alexis: The Memoirs of the Baron de Redé", the 2005 memoirs of Paris socialite Alexis von Rosenberg, Baron de Redé, however, suggest that the fashion designer actually died of a heart attack after a too strenuous evening spent with two young men.
Although his death made N°1 in all the French press it was immediately forgotten, overshadowed by the launching of the first Soviet sputnik three days later.
At the time of his death, Dior salons had been opened in 24 countries. The Dior firm—successively led by designers Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, and John Galliano—continued to be a fashion leader and was associated with a much wider range of merchandise, including menswear and household linens.
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/5410/diorchristian0jn.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
RedWine
12-01-2005, 09:36 AM
It's not easy to circumscribe the Dolce & Gabbana universe within a definition.
A world made up of sensations, traditions, culture and a Mediterranean nature.
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have made a trademark of their surnames which is known throughout the world, easily recognizable thanks to its glamour and great versatility.
Two Designers who have known how to make a flag out of their Italian character.
Two Designers who have known how to interpret and impose their sensual and unique style on a world-wide basis.
Two young Designers who address themselves to young people and who draw inspiration from them.
Two Designers adored by the Hollywood stars who have made the duo their favorites: two Designers who dress all of the rock stars of the moment and who have elected them as their unquestionable leaders.
The Designers of Madonna, Monica Bellucci, Isabella Rossellini, Kylie Minogue and Angelina Jolie, amongst others.
The Dolce & Gabbana woman is strong: she likes herself and knows she is liked.
A cosmopolitan woman who has toured the world but who doesn't forget her roots.
A woman who indifferently wears extremely sexy guêpières or bras that can be seen under sheer clothes, contrasting them with the very masculine pinstripe suits complete with tie and white shirt or a men's vest. She always wears very high heels which, in any case, give her both an extremely feminine and sexy way of walking and unmistakable posture. She loves that so masculine cap imported from Sicily and the rosary of the first Communion which she wears as a necklace. She can indifferently be a manager, wife, mother or lover but she is always - and in whatever case - thoroughly a woman.
And the same is true for the man.
At his ease, he dresses for himself, a little hedonistic he pays considerable attention to details. He loves everything that doesn't schematize him. He's free and he's successful.
He can go to the office wearing an impeccable pinstripe suit or equally with worn out jeans and blazer. He's a man who lays down the rules, he's not subjected to them. Exuding charisma, he imposes his traditions by wearing the cap, the waistcoat and the timeless white T-shirt vest.
http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/3493/dolcegabbana181766m5ng.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
RedWine
12-02-2005, 07:10 AM
The Benetton family came from very humble origins, that being Treviso, in northeast Italy. They grew up poor with virtually little support because their father died while they were children. They are known by many as the "Benetton Four" and their story is truly an inspiring one.
Their success story begins in 1955 with a teenage Luciano Benetton and his sister Giuliana. At the age of five, Giuliana developed a passion for knitting and most certainly a skill that would someday make her family rich. As her teen age years approached, Giuliana continued knitting day in and day out for a tiny knitting business. Luciano would hop on his bicycle making deliveries of his sister Giuliana's handknit sweaters. Luciano, who was then 20 and had worked as a salesman in Treviso, realized his sister's talent and the two pooled their resources and skills. They sold a younger brother's bicycle along with Luciano's accordion in order to buy their first second-hand knitting machine. Then Luciano began to market a small collection of sweaters to local Veneto area stores. The positive reaction to her designs was only the beginning of a solid start. Soon after they were in business and were joined by their two younger brothers, Giberto and Carlo. In 1965, the Benetton's opened their first store in Belluno and the year after in Paris, with Luciano as chairman, his brother Giberto in charge of administration, their younger brother Carlo running production, and Giuliana as a chief designer - and the rest is history.
Although this fashion empire had grown out of a tightly-controlled Italian family, it is first-born Luciano, who is the marketing genius behind the most widespread apparel network in the world. Luciano is described as a charismatic, down-home, nice guy. Now 60, Luciano is a classic child of the Veneto region, where he still resides today. His single mindedness and rational approach to business can be attributed to his grass roots. There has been a long line of local tradition of successful family firms. The Benettons' come from one ambitious family. Their father owned a car and bicycle rental business, therefore bicycles are important to the Benettons. The Benettons' are a self-made, self-motivated family. None of the first-generation Benettons attended college, yet they still converse with older employees in the local dialect instead of classic Italian.
Despite the ad controversy, Benetton managed to maintain an admirable corporate image during Italian government payoff investigations conducted in 1993 that involved more than 5,000 of the country's political and business elite. Luciano had gotten involved in national politics as part of a movement to overthrow the old system, and in 1992 was elected to the Italian Senate as a member of the Republican party. However, Luciano withdrew from politics, claiming that the Italian government had met its objective, to pursue his talent for minding the family business.
The "Benetton Four" have successfully grown from a home based business to a multinational corporation while at the same time maintaining family unity. The Benettons have always had a sense for business and will continue to take interest in their family legacy.
http://img333.imageshack.us/img333/854/pe8i1oa.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
RedWine
12-03-2005, 07:07 AM
Giorgio Armani was born July 11, 1934, in Piacenza, Italy. One of three children, Armani had his heart set on becoming a doctor. After graduating high school, a young Armani headed to medical school at the University of Bologna, but after 2 years he realized that medicine -- specifically the sight of blood -- was not for him.
With some previous experience in photography and a brief time in the military, Armani was hired as a window-dresser and then a buyer for La Rinescente; Milan's largest department store. Armed with merchandising experience and a desire to design, Armani was then hired as an assistant designer for Nino Cerruti's men's clothing company, Hitman, for 6 years.
fly like an eagle
It was then time to take his work to a more independent level. Before the Armani line, as we know it today, was established, the man behind the eagle label worked as a freelance designer after having gained experience at Ungaro and Zegna.
In 1975, along with partner Sergio Galeotti, Armani founded his own men's ready-to-wear line, while the women's wear followed a year later. It took selling a Volkswagen to help finance the label, which has grown into the billion-dollar industry it is today.
By combining elegance with a sophisticated style, Armani succeeded by giving sports jackets a sportswear feel and making the tailoring less severe.
In the early '80s, Armani saw the potential of getting his designs into movies, when he provided Richard Gere's wardrobe in 1980's American Gigolo. Since then, his creations have been seen on the Oscar red carpet and at Hollywood affairs, on celebrities like Jodie Foster, Michelle Pfeiffer, Russell Crowe, Benjamin Bratt, Robert De Niro, and Benicio Del Toro.
an empire is established
Giorgio Armani launched Emporio Armani and Armani Jeans in 1981; Armani women's perfume in 1982; Armani men's fragrance in 1984; Notturno telephone (manufactured by Italtel) in 1986; Giorgio Armani Occhiali and Giorgio Armani Calze in 1987; A/X Armani Exchange in 1991; Acqua di Gio women's perfume, Giorgio Armani Neve (Snow), and Giorgio Armani Golf, all in 1995; and Acqua di Gio men's fragrance and Giorgio Armani Classico for men and women, in 1996.
Armani's empire also includes swimwear, underwear and accessories, for both men and women.
Even at the very start of his career in fashion design, Armani's power and talent were evident. In 1982, he was the first fashion designer to appear on the cover of Time magazine since Christian Dior.
His list of awards and honors include:
the Neiman Marcus Award in 1979
CUTTY SARK Award for International Top Men's Fashion Designer in 1980, 1981, 1984, 1986, and 1987
GQ magazine's Men's Style Award for best fashion designer in 1981
Council of Fashion Designers of America in 1983
Commendatore Dell'Ordine Al Merito Della Repubblica (Italian Government Award) in 1985
Occhio D'Oro as Best Designer for Spring/Summer Collections in 1984, 1986, 1987, and 1988
Gran Caveliere Della Repubblica (Italian Government Award) and the Lifetime Achievement Award for men's wear by the CFDA in 1987
the PETA Award in 1990
the Fiorino D'Oro Award for promoting Made in Italy image in 1992
Aguja De Oro Award for Best Designer of the Year in 1993
GQ's Man of the Year Award in 1996
This is but a few of Armani's awards.
RedWine
12-05-2005, 05:24 PM
René LACOSTE entered the legend of tennis when he and his team-mates "The Musketeers", stole the Davis Cup away from the Americans for the first time, in 1927.
Not forgetting his 3 French Open victories (1925, 1927 and the ROLAND-GARROS stadium in 1929), his two victories in Great Britain (WIMBLEDON 1925 and 1928 and two U.S. OPEN titles at Forest Hills (1926 and 1927).
René LACOSTE was born in France on 2nd July 1904 and died on 12th October 1996.
The true story of the "Crocodile" begins in 1927. René LACOSTE liked to recount how his nickname became an emblem recognized throughout the world.
"I was nicknamed "the Alligator" by the American press, after I made a bet with the Captain of the French Davis Cup Team concerning a suitcase made from alligator skin. He promised to buy it for me if I won a very important match for our team.The public must have been fond of this nickname which conveyed the tenacity I displayed on the tennis courts, never letting go of my prey!"
"So my friend Robert GEORGE drew a 'crocodile' which I then had embroidered on the blazer I wore on the courts.
An attentive spectator at René LACOSTE's Davis Cup matches was the winner of the BRITISH Womens golf title, Mademoiselle Simone THION de la CHAUME, who soon became his wife and constant support.
In 1933, René LACOSTE and André GILLIER, the owner and President of the largest French knitwear manufacturing firm of that time, set up a company to manufacture the logo-embroidered shirt. The champion had designed this for his own use on the tennis court, as well as a number of other shirts for tennis, golf and sailing - as can be seen in the first catalogue, produced in 1933.
To the best of our knowledge, this was the first time that a brand name appeared on the outside of an article of clothing - an idea which has since become extremely successful.
This shirt revolutionized mens sportswear and replaced the woven fabric, long-sleeved, starched classic shirts.The first LACOSTE shirt was white, slightly shorter than its counterparts, had a ribbed collar, short sleeves with ribbed bands and was made of a light knitted fabric called "Jersey petit piquéIt continues to offer the same quality, comfort and solidity on which it built its name and which constitute its uniqueness.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/media/images/40621000/jpg/_40621568_lacoste_200x245.jpg
RedWine
12-06-2005, 05:43 AM
Carolina Herrera (Carolina Pacanins Niño de Herrera Guevara). Born in Caracas, Venezuela in 1939, she is a fashion designer and entrepreneur who founded her eponymous company in 1980 with great success. Based in New York since 1981, Carolina managed to qualify, throughout the 70's and 80's as one of the best dressed women in the world. Her empire grew so rapidly and steadily since its creation that she went on to dress Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis for the last twelve years of her life. She is married to Venezuelan chuleta Reinaldo Herrera Guevara, son of fashion icon María Teresa (Mimí) Guevara Pietrantoni de Herrera Uslar, by whom she had two daughters. She was previously married to Guillermo Behrens Tello, bearing him two daughters as well.
http://img493.imageshack.us/img493/9866/1986carolinaherrera3ig.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
RedWine
12-07-2005, 05:40 AM
Ralph Lauren (October 14, 1939 – living) is an American fashion designer.
Born Ralph Lipschitz in Bronx, New York, to Jewish immigrants Frank and Frida Lipschitz. His father was a house painter. Much as Robert Denning, the interior designer had grown up with a bare lightbulb, but went on to create for others an environment of society and old-money, Lauren too would clothe and accessorize anyone to look the part for society and the country-club. A world that neither had any exposure to as a child. This look would eventually become Polo Ralph Lauren.
At a very young age, Ralph started working after school to earn money to buy stylish, expensive suits. Even then he preferred quality over quantity, and his attire soon gave him a trendy reputation among his peers.
Ralph attended DeWitt Clinton High School, on Mosholu Parkway in The Bronx. Other luminaries who attended DeWitt Clinton include Burt Lancaster, Robert Klein and Stan Lee. At age 16, Ralph and his older brother Jerry changed their last name from Lipschitz to Lauren. Some people consider this a denial of their Jewish heritage; Ralph considered it necessary for success.
Although Lauren's future was to be in the clothing and fashion industry, he did not attend fashion school. Instead he went to the City College of New York where he studied Business; he dropped out after two years. From 1962 to 1964, he served in the United States Army. He married Ricky Low-Beer in 1964. He then worked as a Brooks Brothers salesman before purchasing the Polo label that he started from Brooks in 1967. In 1968, he opened his own tie business, Polo Fashions, after securing a $50,000 loan from a financial backer. Since then, Lauren's fashion empire has grown into a billion-dollar business.
In 1984 he recreated the Rhinelander Mansion, a former home of Edgar de Evia and Robert Denning, into the flagship store for Polo Ralph Lauren. Edgar would this same year photograph the Lauren home "Round Hill" in Jamaica for House & Garden.
In the mid 1990s, Polo Ralph Lauren became a publicly traded company and was traded on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol RL.
Ralph Lauren has since created many other brands some of which are Purple Label for high-end formalwear and Polo Jeans Co., for younger and more casual wear. In late 2004, Lauren added the latest brand under his name called Rugby, which he targets towards college consumers. So far he has opened stores in Boston, Charlottesville, Chapel Hill, North Carolina, and New York City with plans of expanding.
Ralph and his wife, Ricky, have two sons and a daughter: Andrew, David, and Dylan. David is an executive at Ralph Lauren Media.
Lauren is also well-known as a collector of classic automobiles. His cars have won best in show at the prestigous Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance multiple times. His collection was recently displayed at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts.
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/26/ralphlauren6vg.gif (http://imageshack.us)
RedWine
12-08-2005, 10:31 AM
Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier. In 1874 Louis-Francois' son, Alfred Cartier took over the running of the company, but it was his sons, Louis, Pierre and Jaques, who were responsible for establishing the famous world-wide brand name of Cartier. Louis retained responsibility for the Paris branch, moving to Rue de la Paix, in 1899. He instigated some of the company's most celebrated design innovations, like the legendary mystery clocks, high fashion wristwatches, exotic orientalist Art Deco designs including the daringly colourful "Tutti Frutti" jewels. Jaques took charge of the London operation and eventually moved to the current location at New Bond Street. Pierre Cartier established the New York Branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to the current location of 653 Fifth Avenue, the Neo-Renaissance mansion of banker Morton Plant. Amoung the Cartier team was Charles Jacqueau who joined Louis Cartier in 1909 for his entire life and Jeanne Toussaint who was appointed Director of Fine Jewelry from 1933 on. In the 1960s Cartier New York and Cartier Paris passed to outside hands. In 1972 a group of investors led by Joseph Kanoui bought Cartier Paris whose President became Robert Hocq the creator of the concept of "Les Must de Cartier" in collaboration with Alain Dominique Perrin General Director of "Les Must de Cartier". In 1974 and 1976 respectively, Cartier London and Cartier New York was bought back. In 1979 the Cartier interests were combined together creating "Cartier Monde" uniting and controlling Cartier Paris, London and New York.
RedWine
12-09-2005, 06:05 AM
Gianni Versace, the Prince of Fashion, his life was cut short during his prime. His designs are innovative, almost risque, the genius behind them apparent.
http://www.geocities.com/FashionAvenue/1122/versace/models_versace_ani.gif
GIANNI VERSACE - A SHORT BIOGRAPHY .
First Part
1946 Gianni Versace was born in Reggio Calabria on December 2.
1972 At the age of 25 he decides to move to Milan and works as a fashion designer, drawing his first pret-a-porter collections for Genny, Complice and Callaghan.
1975 He presents his first leather collection, created for Complice.
1978 On March 28 he presensts his first collection for Women signed with his own name in a fashion show at the Palazzo della Permanente, in Milan.
1979 Versace, who has always paid great attention to his image, starts a fortunate collaboration with the American photographer Richard Avedon.
1982 Versace wins the first of a series of awards that will crown his career: "L'Occhio d'Oro" for the best fashion designer of the 1982/83 Fall/Winter collection for women; in this collection he displays the famous metal garments, now a classic feature of his fashion. The same year, he begins a collaboration with the Teatro alla Scala and designs costumes for the Richard Strauss' ballet "Josephlegende"; the stage design is by the painter Luigi Veronesi.
1983 He creates the costumes for Gustav Mahler's ballet "Lieb und Leid" and on October 21, with the Comune di Milano's patronage, the show. "E' Design" opens its doors at the Padiglione di Arte Contemporanea where Gianni Versace displays a synthesis of his technological research.
1984 Versace creates the costumes for Donizetti's "Don Pasquale" and for the ballet "Dyonisos" directed by Maurice Bejart, both held at the Teatro alla Scala. In October, at the Piccolo Teatro di Milano, the Belgian choreographer creates a triptych danse in honour of the launch of the fragrance for men "Versace l'Homme".
1985 In Paris, on the occasion of the European presentation of the same fragrance, a contemporary art show is organized, bringing together the works of internationally renowned artists concerning Versace's fashion. Young people have always been a major source of inspiration for Versace and on October 2, the fashion designer is at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London to give a talk on his fashion for a large group of students, and to illustrate the show "Arte e moda".
1986 A year in which awards and shows intertwine. On January 24, the President of the Italian Republic Francesco Cossiga confers the decoration of "Commendatore della Repubblica Italiana" on him; the National Field Museum in Chicago presents a major retrospective show on the work of Versace in the last ten years. On October 22, in Paris, during the show "Gianni Versace: Obiettivo Moda", illustrating the professional collaboration between Versace and internationally renowned photographers (Avedon, Newton, Penn, Weber, Barbieri, Gastel, etc.), Jacques Chirac assigns the "Grande Medaille de Vermeil de la Ville de Paris" to Versace. On November 14, the premiere of the ballet "La metamorphose des dieux" by Malraux is presented in Brussels. The costumes are designed by Gianni Versace and the choreography is by Maurice Bejart.
1987 In January Bob Wilson stages Richard Strauss "Salome" for the Scala and asks Versace to design the costumes; on March 31, Bejart presents "Leda and the Swan" at the Scala, with costumes by Versace; on April 7, the book "Versace Teatro" published by Franco Maria Ricci.is presented. In June, Gianni Versace goes to Russia in the retinue of Bejart, for whom he designs the costumes of the "Ballet du XX Siecle" broadcasted throughout the world from Leningrad within the programm "The white nights of dance". In September Versace's huge professional contribution to the theatre is rewarded with the "Maschera D'Argento" prize. On September 21, "Souvenir de Leningrad", a ballet by Bejart's new dance company, makes its debut in Lausanne, and even on this occasion Versace's contribution is crucial.
1988 Versace goes to Paris to design the stage costumes for Zizi Jeanmaire's last recital at the Bouffes du Nord; on March 30, in Brussels, alongside Maurice Bejart, he presents the costumes for the ballet inspired by Evita Peron in an absolute premiere at the Theatre Royal de la Monnaie. On June 8, the jury of the "Cutty Sark" nominates him the most creative and innovative fashion designer for men; in September Versace opens a 600 sqm. showroom in Madrid, his first boutique in Spain. On December 20 he is once again in Paris to design the costumes for the ballet "Java Forever", with Zizi Jenamaire, presented at the Opera Comique to celebrate the Bicentenary of the French Revolution.
RedWine
12-09-2005, 06:06 AM
II Part
1989 On January 25, the opening of the "Atelier Versace" - a workshop where high fashion models are created - is announced at a soiree held at the Gare d'Orsay, attended by Madame Mitterand, where also the film "The fortune of friendship" recounting the relationship between Versace and Maurice Bejart, is presented. On April 13, the exhibition "L'abito per pensare", is inaugurated at the Castello Sforzesco in Milan, through historical and social interpretations, it displays 25 years of activity in fashion and in the theatre, a crucial stage in the evolution of the history of costume. On May 16, on the occasion of the celebration for the Bicentenary of the French Revolution, Bejart invites him to Paris to design the costumes of the ballet "Chaka Zulu", inspired by L. Senghor's poem. On July 6, in Milan, Versace presents "Versus", a new line for young people - manufactured by the Manifatture Itierre of the Gruppo Pantrem, - which explores informal themes and puts itself forward as an alternative to so-called conventional ways of dressing. On November 14 there is yet another ballet: Bejart stages:"Elegie pour Elle" at the Cirque Royal in Brussels, and the Costumes are designed by Versace once again.
1990 The "Atelier" collection is presented in a fashion show at the Hotel Ritz, Paris, in the early part of the year; in April Versace opens his second boutique in New York, and the eleventh in the United States, in the prestigious Madison Avenue. On October 21 John Cox i naugurates the theatri ca. l s eas on of the Opera, San Francisco, with Richard Strauss "Capriccio" and the costumes are designed By Versace.
l991 On January 7, the show "Versace Teatro" is inaugurated at the Royal Royal College of Art in London; in March the fragrance "Versus" is launched and on May 14, in collaboration with Omar Calabrese, Versace attends the presentation of the book "Vanitas, lo stile dei sensi" in Milan. In June, a new Versace boutique is opened in Paris, in the famous Fbg. St. Honore. In June, Istante and Versus open their first two Italian stores in via San Pietro all 'Orto, in Milan; "Signature" , Versace's classic line, is launched. In October, the up-dated version of the show "L'abito per pensare" arrives in Japan, at the Kobe City Museum; on October 26, William Forsythe stages his ballets at the Statische Buhnen, Frankfurt, and Versace designs the costumes. In December, Versace is awarded the "L'Occhio d'Oro" prize for the fourth time, proclaiming him the most inventive creator of the year.
1992 January, Paris: the second volume of "Versace Teatro" comes out, published by Franco Maria Ricci: on February 27, the fragrance "Versus Donna" is presented at the Versus boutique in Milan; in Munich, the itinerant show "Theater der Mode" celebrates Versace's latest stylistic and theatrical creations. On May 28 a new Versace showroom opens its doors: here, in a five-storey bulding situated in the prestigious Old Bond Street, the creative universe of the fashion designer is displayed in all its modernity. At the end of May, Elton John's world tour make its debut; the singer is an ardent admirer of Versace, whom he asks to design his stage costumes. New York, 14 September: as testimonial for the Italian Trade Commission, Gianni Versace inaugurates the charity Gala "Rock'N Rule", the profits of which are given to the Amfar anti-AIDS Association; Versace opens a new boutique at Bergdorf Goodman. In October, a new watch was born: "La Meduse" from the Signature line, added to the Premiere watch collection. New York decides to organise an important retrospective show at the Fashion Institute of Technology on the Italian designer's work: "Versace: Signatures". (6 Nov - 9 Jan)
1993 On 1 February the "Council of Fashion Designers of America" assigns the much coveted American Fashion Oscar award to Versace. The book "South Beach Stories" comes out in New York, published by Leonardo Arte. On March 25, Maurice Bejart stages the ballet "Sissi, the Anarchic Empress" at the Sadler's Wells Theatre in London, with Gianni Versace's irreplaceable costumes. In May "Home Signature" is launched, a line of products for the home: table porcelain manufactured by Rosenthal, carpets, quilts and cushions. Milan, 10 November; the book "Vanitas, Ricami e Decori - Decori e Ricami" - published by Leonardo Arte- is officially presented at the Versus boutique.
1994 Versace is in Berlin where he opens a 600 sqm. showroom on the famous Kurfurstendamm. New York, 30 March: Gianni Versace presents the book "Designs", an abridged English edition of " Vanitas, Ricami e Decori Decori e Ricami", at Bergdorf Goodman's. Worldwide launch of the 2 new Versace fragrances: RED & JEANS. Berlin, 15 September: Opening of the of travelling exhibition "VERSACE SIGNATURES" at the Kunstgewerbemuseum that will be held till November 25, 1994. This year the exhibition includes a new section dedicated to the "Home" line, in addition to those regarding embroideries, timeless fashion, prints, leather, and the theater costumes. October 1994 - the book "L'UOMO SENZA CRAVATTA"(the man without tie) by Gianni Versace comes out. It's the fourth volume of the Vanitas series , published by Leonardo Arte.
1995 January 17 - Inauguration of the Richard Avedon's exhibition: "Richard Avedon 1944-1994" sponsorised by Versace and officially hosted by the Milan City Council in the Palazzo reale - Sala delle Cariatidi ( from January 18 to March 5). March 3 - "How Near Heaven", new performance of the American Ballet Theatre receives its World Premiere at the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts in Washington D.C. Coreography by Twyla Tharp, for whom Gianni Versace designes the marvellous costumes. May 1st, premiere at the Metropolitan Opera House in New York June 14. London: Gianni Versace boutique in Old Bond Street. Gianni Versace and Elton John party for the Elton John Aids Foundation. Unique and signed copies of Gianni Versace's new book "Men without ties" will be on sale during the party. The book doesn't go on national release until the following morning. June 15. Booksigning of "Men without ties" at Harrod's. End of October - the book "DO NOT DISTURB) by Gianni Versace comes out. It's the fifth volume of the Vanitas series, published by Leonardo Arte.
1997 On July, Gianni Versace was gunned down in his South Beach home in Miami, Florida. On July 23, 1997, the prime suspect for Gianni Versace's killing was found dead in a Miami Beach boathouse.
RedWine
12-10-2005, 10:30 AM
Spring is a transitional period when you're dying to shed your winter coat but the weather just isn't cooperating yet. While the sun may be out, it's still not warm enough to throw on the tanktop and sandals, but these transitional pieces can make spring dressing a bit less frustrating.
Steps:
1. Investigate your closet for essential spring clothing you may already own, such as colorful silk scarves to pair with suits and dresses. Check for clothing in pastel colors or light-colored woolens to wear while the weather is still cool.
2. Consider switching over from wool to wool blends, and from silk to cotton or linen, when adding pieces to your spring wardrobe.
3. Identify five warmer-weather outfits already in your closet, since spring tends to come on very suddenly.
4. Start building your spring wardrobe with a crisp white cotton shirt. It can easily be dressed up with slacks, or dressed down when you tuck it into jeans or khakis.
5. Find a silk knit twinset. This can be dressed up by pairing it with a s***t or by using just the cardigan over a dress. Wear it with jeans or khakis when you want to dress down.
6. Select dark stretch cotton pants to add versatility to your wardrobe.
7. Pull together any outfit with a sharp blazer.
8. Acquire a spring suit in a neutral color such as taupe, cream, navy or beige. This will take you from business to cocktails by adding a few accessories, changing your shoes or removing the jacket.
9. Include hats as part of your spring wardrobe. Consider a straw hat or one adorned with springtime silk flowers.
10. Dress up for evening with a short slip or sheath dress in a pastel color and strappy sandals.
11. Complete your wardrobe with a microfiber raincoat for the rainy days still on the horizon.
Tips:
Spring is all about wearing color. If you hate bright and pastel colors or shy away from them, consider navy. It's a timeless classic and goes well with almost any neutral color. Adding one colorful item to every outfit you wear will also help ease color phobia.
Make a pair of sunglasses a staple in your wardrobe.
Feel free to add an "item of the moment" to your look for variety. Accessorize, accessorize!
Warnings:
Avoid wearing white shoes before Memorial Day on the East Coast, or before Easter in the South.
RedWine
12-11-2005, 06:32 AM
Although you can't finger the fabric or try on the item, the payoff in convenience and an almost unlimited selection may make you a convert once you master the basics of buying clothes online.
Steps:
1. Ask a friend, a tailor or a clothing store salesperson to help you measure your chest, waist, hips, arm length and inseam (the distance from your crotch to where you want the hem of your pants to fall). Another way to get your inseam is to measure a pair of pants that fit perfectly.
2. Look for sites that provide you with lots of information about their clothes via high-quality photos and detailed descriptions, dimensions and sizing information.
3. Check out one of the coolest aspects of buying online: virtual model technology at sites like MyVirtualModel.com. You can see clothes you're interested in on a generic model or on one that you customize with your weight, height and body shape, so you can virtually try before you buy.
4. Find jeans that were literally made for you. Sites like IC3D.com, LandsEnd.com and AmericanFitClothing.com give you options to design your own pants, from $54 to $125. Customize lengths, colors, waistlines, leg styles and more.
5. Contact customer service by phone or e-mail with any questions not addressed by the site's frequently asked questions (FAQ) area. Representatives often have additional notes about the fit or care of items. Some sites let you converse with customer service reps by typing in questions and receiving instant answers.
6. Buy several items at the same time to avoid paying individual shipping charges. Look for retailers that offer free shipping when you spend a certain amount.
7. Understand the return policy. Some online retailers let you return clothes to their local store, which saves you shipping charges. Be sure to bring your shipping invoice. Some stores provide a prepaid shipping label for returns, which reduces the hassle of returns. Many stores don't charge additional shipping when exchanging an item for a different size. See How to Make Returns.
8. Read the fine print before you click the button to finalize your order. Reputable retailers have secure sites to keep your credit card and personal information safe and private, but you may have to check a specific box to prevent your name from being sold to other mailing lists or to avoid receiving additional catalogs.
Overall Tips:
If you have a favorite Web retailer, sign up to be notified about upcoming sales via e-mail.
Online clothing sites are often packed with images, which can make Web pages load slowly. Save time and frustration by browsing through a retailer's catalog before you go online.
Check out sites such as DealCatcher.com that gather discounts. Or search the Web for the retailer's name plus "coupon" or "discount." Web sites that aggregate retailers such as Yahoo Shopping and credit card company Web sites sometimes feature exclusive merchant discounts.
RedWine
12-19-2005, 08:18 AM
The loss of one's hair can be a grievous blow to self-image and confidence. Medications, illness, heredity, pregnancy, menopause, changing hormone levels and stress can all contribute to hair loss. Other culprits are chemotherapy, hereditary baldness or alopecia.
Steps:
1. Consult your doctor, dermatologist or an endocrinologist to eliminate medical causes such as thyroid issues or alopecia. Rule out any dietary contributors by making sure you're getting all the vitamins, protein and calories you need.
2. Apply over-the-counter minoxidil (Rogaine) to thinning or balding patches twice a day. The exact way this medicine works is not known, but it is thought to cause dilation of the blood vessels in the scalp. If you stop treatment once you've started, hair loss will resume within a few months.
3. Try prescription-only Propecia or Proscar, which have been found to work rather well for women. The active ingredient finasteride blocks the formation of active testosterone and allows those hairs predisposed to inactivity to become active again and make new hairs. The two brands have different dosages of finasteride.
4. Explore hair-replacement surgery options. Mini- or micrografting may offer the most natural results. A strip of scalp with hair is divided into a few hundred tiny grafts with just a few strands apiece, then inserted into minuscule slits in the scalp. Skilled surgeons ensure all hair is growing in the same direction. Make sure to see live examples of the surgeon's work before proceeding.
5. Discuss treatment options with your doctor for alopecia. While very little is known about the disorder, there is evidence of a genetic component as well as a link to autoimmune problems. Depending on the variety (areata: spots on the head; totalis: the entire head; or universalis: all body hair), there's a good chance that cortisone injections on the head and eyebrows will spur hair growth. Injections can be painful but may offer a huge morale boost for people who would do just about anything to look the way they used to.
Overall Tips:
Talking to other people who've lost their hair can be enormously helpful, as are supportive friends and family. Contact the National Alopecia Areata Foundation at alopeciaareata.com for information and to subscribe to their newsletter.
Overall Warnings:
Be aware that 5 percent minoxidil is not recommended for use by women, due to the potential for greater drug penetration. Women using this percentage in clinical trials were inclined to grow hair in areas where minoxidil was not applied.
RedWine
12-22-2005, 04:34 AM
Although the age of Supermodels is long gone, Iranian women are still playing a big role in the world of fashion and modelling. Persian women all over the world have been competing in Miss World contests and many have won over the last few years. From TV shows to realty series, we are seeing more and more Iranian women using the classic Persian features to win the hearts of judges and audiences all over the world. One of the innovators in modelling still remains Yasmin Le Bon. Leading the way is also male supermodel Cameron Alborzian. Other new comers include Shermine Sharivar (Miss Germany 2004), Nadia Bjorlin (Days of Our Lives on left), Sarah Racey-Tabrizi (America's Top Model Reality show), and Nazanin Afshin-Jam (Miss World Canada 2003).
RedWine
12-24-2005, 04:39 AM
Accessories embellish any outfit, and a formal evening is the perfect occasion to go to town. From amber to zircon, hats to hose, scarves and shawls to shoes and slip-ons, consider the occasion and the season.
Overview
Steps:
1. Accessorize one (or all) of your most visible areas: neck, wrists and shoulders.
2. Think seriously about costume jewelry and faux gems; they are relatively inexpensive and readily accessible at department stores and secondhand boutiques.
3. Evaluate your formal outfit carefully: Is it simple and elegant or fancy and froufrou? (Remember that a hot pink feather boa will be a showstopper at a ball but will merely attract stares at a college graduation.)
4. Ponder the notion that less is usually more ... and almost always suffices.
Tips:
Analyze your bracelet, earrings, necklace, scarf, shoes, stockings and evening bag. Does everything work together?
Consider wearing a limited number of fine (or glamorous) items, not everything you own.
Jewelry
Steps:
1. Choose a matching bracelet and necklace.
2. Get real, cultured or faux pearls and wear them anywhere.
3. Wear a tennis bracelet - such as a single strand of diamonds - for a dramatic look. Or consider an evening watch instead of a bracelet.
4. Try elegant pearl or diamond studs for your ears. Vintage clip-ons or exotic dangling earrings could also work.
5. Adorn your hair with sparkling clips, tortoiseshell barrettes, a diamond tiara or even a fresh gardenia.
6. Find a ring that complements your other jewelry.
Tips:
Be sure a matching set is all real or all faux, not some of each.
Consider the company if you want to wear an ankle bracelet.
Treat yourself to a manicure, especially if you're sporting a ring.
Shoes, Shawls and Silk Purses
Steps:
1. Put on your fancy shoes, no matter how elegant or frivolous, but be sure they are comfortable enough to dance the night away.
2. Choose stockings in a neutral palette. If you want hose with a design, make it subtle.
3. Go with gloves to the opera, a debutante ball or the Ascot races.
4. Toss a shawl around your shoulders; make sure it goes with your outfit in terms of color and texture.
5. Try a lace mantilla or a vintage smoking jacket for "a look" or for warmth.
6. Carry an evening purse or a beaded bag large enough to hold business cards, keys, cash and lip gloss.
RedWine
12-29-2005, 05:51 AM
An exhibition of 1,500 selected photographs from Fashion Planet's visit to Bangkok Fashion City.
THAILAND
OK, so what's all the noise about Bangkok? As we settle into our flight across the Pacific, I start flipping through the latest copy of The Economist and happen on the last page: Emerging-market indicators. It doesn't take an economist to see that Thailand has half the foreign reserves of Russia. You can also see that Thailand is the number two country in the world for the percentage change up on their leading indicators for financial markets. At least this was the case February 14th. Maybe this Bangkok Fashion City has potential.
http://www.fashion-planet.com/sept98/features/bangkokfc/mediumpix/bfc3glred.jpg
RedWine
01-07-2006, 07:22 AM
Donna Faske (born October 2, 1948 in Forest Hills, New York), better known as Donna Karan, is an American fashion designer.
Karan, nicknamed The Queen Of Seventh Avenue, began working for Liz Claiborne at a very young age. In 1974, she began working with Anne Klein, with whom she lasted as one of her top designers for ten years. In 1984, she first showed her own collection. She had her first baby that year, but she kept on working as a designer throughout her maternity leave period. Karan won the Coty Award in 1977 and once again in 1981. She was inducted into the Coty Hall Of Fame in 1984.
She currently owns a company named Donna Karan New York , which is involved in the marketing, production and design of clothes.
As the British writer Tony Barrell has pointed out (London Sunday Times, October 9, 2005), Karan was born on exactly the same day as the former British football star Trevor Brooking.
http://www.csua.berkeley.edu/~safari/fashion/DonnaKaran.jpg
RedWine
01-08-2006, 09:23 AM
Fashion design is the applied art dedicated to the design of clothing and lifestyle accessories.
The first fashion designer who was not merely a dressmaker was Charles Frederick Worth (1826-1895). Before the former draper set up his maison couture (fashion house) in Paris, clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous seamstresses, and high fashion descended from styles worn at royal courts. Worth's success was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. With his unprecedented success, his customers could attach a name and a face to his designs once they learned that they were from the House of Worth, thus starting the tradition of having the designer of a house be not only the creative head but the symbol of the brand as well. (Foreshadowing another contemporary trend, the House of Worth remained in business long after its founder's death in 1895, continuing until Worth's great-grandson closed the house in 1952.)
Worth's former apprentice Paul Poiret opened his own fashion house in 1904, melding the styles of Art Nouveau and aestheic dress with Paris fashion. His early Art Deco creations signalled the demise of the corset from female fashion.
Following in Worth's and Poiret's footsteps were: Patou, Vionnet, Fortuny, Lanvin, Chanel, Mainbocher, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Dior. Hand in hand with clothing, haute couture accessories evolved internationally with such names as Guccio Gucci, Thierry Hermès, Judith Leiber, and others.
RedWine
01-08-2006, 09:23 AM
The early twentieth century
Throughout the 1920s and '30s, all high fashion originated in Paris. American and British fashion magazines sent editors to the Paris fashion shows. Department stores sent buyers to the Paris shows, where they purchased garments to copy (and openly stole the style lines and trim details of others). Both made-to-measure salons and ready-to-wear departments featured the latest Paris trends, adapted to the stores' assumptions about the lifestyles and pocket books of American customers.
Designer Elizabeth Hawes, in her memoir Fashion is Spinach 1938 describes Paris fashion of this period from the inside, when she worked in Paris for both fashion magazines and department stores.
RedWine
01-08-2006, 09:24 AM
Modern fashion design and designers
Modern fashion design is roughly divided into two categories, haute couture, and ready-to-wear. A designer's haute-couture collection is meant exclusively for private customers and is custom sized, cut and sewn. To qualify as an official "haute couture" house, a designer or company must belong to the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture, a Paris-based body of designers governed by the French Department of Industry that includes American, Italian, Japanese, and other designers as well. A haute couture house must show collections twice yearly with at least 35 separate outfits in each show. It is often shown on the catwalk and in private salons.
Ready-to-wear collections are not custom made. They are standard sized which makes them more suitable for larger productions. Ready-to-wear collections can also be divided into designers/createur collections and Confection collections. Designer/createur collections have a high quality, a superb finish and a unique cut and design. These collections are the most trendsetting compared to Haute Couture and Confection. Designer/createurs ready to wear collections contain often concept items that represent a certain philosophy or theory. These items are not so much created for sales but just to make a statement. The designer's ready-to-wear collection is also presented on the international catwalks by people who do fashion modeling.
Confection collections are the ones we see most commonly in our shops. These collections are designed by stylists. The brands that produce these collections aim only for a mass public and are in general not searching for new grammar for the language or a new point of view on/of fashion.
Although many modern fashion designers work in a "traditional" way -- making clothes that are fancy and expensive, but still based on standard/traditional construction and design concepts -- some designers have broken these "rules" over the years. These include some now-deceased designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, who worked in the thirties, forties, and fifties; Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, and Junya Watanabe from the early eighties to the present; and designers from the mid-nineties onward. An example of a modern-day rule-breaker is Martin Margiela. These designers approach clothing, Fashion and lifestyle from new angles and explore also the boundaries of Fashion itself in order to create new concepts and views for fashion design. Their collections are not only restricted to garments (ready to wear as well as couture) and other fashion-related products, but also contain work in other media. The works of this breed of designers can also be placed in a certain Art movement.
Most fashion designers attend an Academie of fine arts. Fashion design courses are considered applied arts just like graphic design and interior design.
The types of fashion designer -- stylist versus designer -- are often confused. A stylist inspires his/her designs on existing things, trends and designers collections. A designer starts from scratch; he/she develops a unique concept and translates this into garment collections, other lifestyle related products or a statement in various other types of media. Some designers approach their work just as a fine arts painter or sculptor.
Inspiration for fashion designers comes from a wide range of things and cannot be pinpointed exactly. However, just like all artists, they tend to keep an eye on things going on world-wide to inspire themselves towards making their future clothes lines.
Most fashion designers are well trained pattern makers and modeleurs. A typical design team is made up of one or more: designer(s), pattern maker(s) /modeleur(s), sample maker(s), buyer(s) and salesman (men). For presentations and catwalk shows the help of hair dressers, make-up artists, photographers, modeling agencies, the model and other support companies/professions is called upon.
RedWine
01-10-2006, 04:33 AM
Pierre Cardin (politician) was the Canadian Minister of Transport from 1940 to 1942
Pierre Cardin is a fashion designer. He was born in 1922, near Venice, Italy, to French parents. He moved to Paris in 1945. There he studied architecture and worked with Paquin after the war. Work with Schiaparelli followed until he became head of Christian Dior's tailleure atelier in 1947, but was denied work at Balenciaga. He founded his own house in 1950 and began with haute couture in 1953.
Cardin was known for his avant-garde style and his space age designs. He prefers geometric shapes and motifs, often ignoring the female form. He advanced into unisex fashions, sometimes experimental, and not always practical. He introduced the "bubble dress" in 1954.
Cardin was the first couturier to turn to Japan as a high fashion market when he travelled there in 1959.
In 1959, he was expelled from the Chambre Syndicale for launching a ready-to-wear collection for the Printemps department store as the first couturier in Paris, but was soon reinstated. However, he resigned from the Chambre Syndicale in 1966 and now shows his collections in his own venue, the Espace Cardin (opened 1971) in Paris, formerly the Théâtre des Ambassadeurs, near the American Embassy. The Espace Cardin is also used to promote new artistic talents, like theater ensembles, musicians, etc.
His fellow designer, Andrè Oliver, who joined him in 1971 and assumed responsibility for the haute couture collections in 1987, died in 1993.
Cardin was a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture et du Prêt-à-Porter and of the Maison du Haute Couture from 1953 to 1993. Like many other designers today, Cardin decided in 1994 to show his collection only to a small circle of selected clients and journalists.
He purchased Maxim's restaurants in 1981 and soon opened branches in New York, London, and Beijing (1983). A chain of Maxim's Hotels are now included in the assets. Cardin has also licenced a wide range of food products under that name.
Cardin owns the ruins of the castle in Lacoste, Vaucluse that was formerly inhabitated by the Marquis de Sade. He has partially renovated the site and regularly organizes theatre festivals there.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/d/da/ClaudiaCardinaleUnesco.jpg/250px-ClaudiaCardinaleUnesco.jpg
RedWine
01-13-2006, 06:03 AM
Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel (August 19, 1883 – January 10, 1971) was a pioneering French couturier whose modernist philosophy, menswear-inspired fashions, and pursuit of expensive simplicity made her arguably the most important figure in the history of 20th-century fashion design.
Popularly known as Coco Chanel or "Mademoiselle" by her inner circle, she was born in the small city of Saumur, France in 1883, although she asserted she was born in 1893, in Auvergne. Her mother died when Chanel was six, and shortly afterward her father abandoned her and her four siblings; the Chanel children were then placed in the care of relatives and spent some time in an orphanage. After affairs with generous wealthy men – a military officer and later an English industrialist – she was able to open a shop in Paris in 1910 selling ladies' hats, and within a year moved the business to the fashionable Rue Cambon. Her influence on haute couture was such that she was the only person in the field to be named on the List of TIME Magazine's 100 most influential people of the 20th century.
In 1922 Chanel No. 5 perfume was introduced by Chanel. Pierre Wertheimer became her partner in the perfume business in 1924. Wertheimer owned 70% of the company; Coco Chanel received 10% and her friend Bader 20%. The Wertheimers continue to control the perfume company today.
The influential Chanel suit, launched in 1923, was an elegant suit comprising a knee-length s***t and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of woven wool with black trim and gold buttons and worn with large costume-pearl necklaces. Coco Chanel also popularized the little black dress, whose blank-slate versatility allowed it to be worn for day and evening, depending on how it was accessorized. Although unassuming black dresses existed before Chanel, the ones she designed were considered the haute couture standard. In 1923, she told Harper's Bazaar that "simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance."
The nickname Coco was evidently acquired at La Rotonde, a cafe frequented by members of a French cavalry regiment and many of the artists who flocked to Paris' Montparnasse section at the turn of the 20th century. It was there that Chanel, then a cabaret singer, performed a song called "Qui qu'a vu Coco," and the name stuck. (Other sources state that her audiences cried "Coco" when they wanted an encore, while further sources state that the song was called "Ko Ko Ri Ko," French for "Cock-a-doodle-do.")
Chanel was set up in business by a lover, Étienne Balsan, a French textile heir, and her love affairs with the artist Paul Iribe, the Duke of Westminster, Grand Duke Dmitri of Russia, and British sportsman Boy Capel all had a considerable influence on the stylistic evolution of her often male-inspired fashions. She never married. She almost married the Duke of Westminster but declined, noting "There are a lot of duchesses, but only one Coco Chanel."
For more than 30 years, Gabrielle Chanel made the Hôtel Ritz in Paris her home, even during the Nazi occupation of Paris, during which time she was criticized for taking a German military officer as a lover. She maintained an apartment above her Rue Cambon establishment and also owned Villa La Pausa in the town of Roquebrune on the French Riviera. However, she spent her latter years in Lausanne, Switzerland and is buried there in a tomb surrounded by five stone lions.
One of her most widely quoted aphorisms is: "Fashion is not simply a matter of clothes. Fashion is in the air, born upon the wind. One intuits it. It is in the sky and on the road."
Chanel has been portrayed on the Broadway stage by Katharine Hepburn in a musical by Andre Previn and Alan Jay Lerner, and on screen by the French actress Marie-France Pisier.
The House of Chanel in Paris, under Karl Lagerfeld, remains one of the top design houses today.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/a/a9/CocoChanel.gif/180px-CocoChanel.gif
RedWine
01-14-2006, 07:54 AM
Gianni Versace (December 2, 1946 – July 15, 1997) was a famous and almost aristocratic Italian fashion designer, as well as the founder and owner of the high-end Versace clothing company.
Versace was born to a family who owned a tailoring store in the town of Reggio di Calabria, in southern Italy. As a young boy, he learned to design and make his own clothes. Several of his designs were sold at the family store.
Versace's first career success came in 1972, when he was contracted by a company to create a collection. In 1974, his name was seen on his own designs for the first time when he signed with the Complices trademark. In 1978, he opened his first boutique.
In 1985, his Instante collection hit the store stands.
Versace became an internationally famous fashion designer alongside Ralph Lauren, Oscar De La Renta, Carlota Alfaro and Giorgio Armani. He was a personal designer for celebrities such as Courtney Love, Jon Bon Jovi and Elton John, and was particularly known for his innovative designs in leather.
Versace was awarded the coveted American Fashion Oscar on February 1, 1993.
In 1992 Gianni Versace moved to Miami Beach, Florida and purchased a home at 1116 Ocean Drive formerly known as the Amsterdam Palace for $2.9 million.
After receiving city approval to demolish the adjacent Revere Hotel, a two-story, 6,100-foot addition was built, transforming the entire structure into a palatial home that Versace named Casa Casuarina.
Gianni Versace's initial connection with Miami – South Beach in particular – came when he designed the sensual T-shirt-and-pastel-jacket look for the TV series Miami Vice, a look that exuded a fresh style that would soon sweep the country and set the tone for a decade of wild and reckless living.
Versace was shot dead on the front steps of his Miami Beach mansion on July 15, 1997. Andrew Cunanan, who was wanted for murdering four other people in a killing spree, became a prime suspect; four of the victims, including Versace, were gay. Cunanan fled and hid from police. Eight days later, he committed suicide in a houseboat on Miami Beach that was under siege by armed police.
After Versace's death, his sister, Donatella Versace, took over his business and continued usage of the family's trademark bright colors and designs. His lover, Antonio D'Amico, started his own design company.
Versace is sometimes mentioned in Eminem songs, such as "Fight Music," on D12's first CD, Devil's Night, and "Criminal" from The Marshall Mathers LP.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/3/36/Gianni.jpg/171px-Gianni.jpg
RedWine
01-18-2006, 07:11 AM
Marc Jacobs is an American fashion designer, raised in New York. Following his studies at the Parsons School of Design, he became prominent on the fashion scene when he designed a "grunge" collection for Perry Ellis, leading to his immediate dismissal. Jacobs is currently the artistic director for Louis Vuitton, spearheading such collaborations as Stephen Sprouse's graffiti bags and Takashi Murakami's pastel-colored accessories. His own clothing lines, Marc Jacobs and the less expensive Marc By Marc Jacobs, are also extremely popular.
Marc Jacobs has been known to design under his own free will without following trends. In Spring 2004/2005, when designers were following the "safari theme'", Marc Jacobs made his collection completely lady-like and the catwalk which the models walked on had an archway of 450,000 roses. For his fall collection in 2005, he got some terrible reviews and some fantastic ones. He is set to bring out a watch collection ths year under the name Marc Jacobs. These watches will be classic and timeless features with a slightly vintage feel. His clothes are available in many countries around the world.
RedWine
01-19-2006, 08:42 AM
Donatella Versace, was born May 2, 1955 in the Italian town of Reggio di Calabria. Like her famous brother, Gianni Versace, the founder of the high-end Versace clothing company, she is an affluent, high-end fashion designer. Her current title is Vice-President of the Versace Group and Chief Designer of the fashion line as well as holding a great amount of stock, totaling 20% of the entire stock market assets of Versace. Her brother, Santo, owns 35%.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/f/ff/Donatella-versace.jpg
The Growing Versace Name
Donatella is actually credited and known as the figure who began to use notable models and celebrities to broadcast her clothing into the world on the catwalk. Another member of the growing Versace success was Santo Versace S.p. A., Donatella's brother, who is also a fashion designer and the owner of Finanziaria Versace, an upcoming Versace branch. Donatella soon proved to be the public relations giant of the Versace label and spread its name throughout Europe and the United States. Donatella chose to place some of her good friends, Madonna and Demi Moore, in high esteem in the Versace advertising sector, making them and other A-List celebrities the cover and look of Versace, a very business-oriented move. Donatella is also the Creator and Chief Designer of Versace Young, a fashion line for children launched in 1993.
Heiress to the Throne
It was in 1997, while watching TV in her bedroom in between study, that she found the familiar face of her uncle, Gianni, on the news stations, he had been shot. Not only was Gianni an icon of the fashion industry, he was the highest figure in the Versace Group, leaving no one to rule the vast network of clothing lines and branches of his company. His Last Will and Testament stated Allegra Versace was to receive all inheritance and titles.
Allegra Versace, upon her eighteenth birthday, received the inheritance from her beloved uncle, Gianni, the staggering sum of $700 million. Even with extravagant weatlh and success, Allegra stays out of the spotlight, yet still attends the most exclusive parties and clubs of Milan whenever time permits.
"Only you understand how I express what I feel" --Gianni to Allegra
She was not only left an enormous wealth and heritage from her uncle, Allegra was given Gianni's villa on Lake Como, Italy and a large townhome in Manhattan's most affluent neighborhood. To this day she stands to inherit the company, as her brother, Daniel, inherited Gianni's vast rare artwork collection. While the Versace Group is not as well off financially as it was in its earlier stages, the Versace Group hopes a new face with new ideas will bring about a positive change.
RedWine
01-21-2006, 07:51 AM
Shoes sold in Western cultures generally fall into one of the following categories: dress, casual, work, snow, athletic.
Dress Shoes
Dress shoes are categorized by smooth and supple leather uppers, leather soles, and narrow sleek shape.
Although dress shoes are commonly made to be worn by one of the sexes, such as men's shoes or women's shoes, many styles of dress shoes can be worn by either sex. The majority of dress shoes have an upper covering, commonly made of leather, enclosing most of the lower foot, but not covering the ankles. This upper part of the shoe is often made without apertures or openings, but also made with openings or even a connected series of straps, e. g. an open toe feature in women's shoes. Shoes with ankle length (covering the ankles) upper bodies are also available. Such shoes often have zippers to open them.
Men's dress shoes
Some examples of men's dress shoe styles
Oxfords or balmorals
Derbies or bluchers
Wingtips
Monk Straps
Loafers (including penny loafers)
Spectator shoes
Saddle shoes
Women's dress shoes
Some examples of women's dress shoe styles
Normal heels
Flat shoes - usually called "flats"
Ballerina shoes - mimicing the visual style of the professinal ballet shoes, pointe shoes.
Medium height heels ("kitten" heels have less than 2 inches of height)
High heels
Stiletto heels - an extreme variety
Open-toed
Strap upper body shoes
Either sex
Clogs - Fashionable at one time
Platform shoes - shoes with very thick soles and heels, mainly worn by women in the U.S
Moccasins - originated by American Indians
Casual Shoes
Casual shoes are characterized by sturdy leather uppers, non-leather outsoles, and wide profile.
Mary Jane (shoe)
Espadrilles - a casual sandal, with a canvas top and a rope sole
RedWine
01-21-2006, 07:52 AM
Athletic Shoes
Men's and women's athletic shoes and special function shoes often have less difference between the sexes than in dress shoes. In many cases these shoes can be worn by either sex. Emphasis tends to be more on function than style.
Gym shoes (often called sneakers or trainers in slang) - general purpose athletic shoes; made out of rubber, cloth, and/or plastic to be lightweight, flexible, and have good traction. Special varieties available for basketball or tennis.
Running shoes - very similar to above
Boating shoes - also similar to above. They have soft soles/heels to avoid marring or scratching a boat deck.
Track shoes - often have cleats
Football shoes - have cleats
Golf shoes
Bowling shoes - intermediate style between ordinary dress shoes and athletic shoes. They have harder rubber soles/heels so as not to damage bowling alley floors. They are often rented or loaned at bowling alleys.
Hiking shoes (could be boots)
Walking shoes - have a more flexible sole than the running shoe is much lighter weight than the hiking boot and is more likely to have air holes in it than to be water proof.
Climbing shoes
Orthopedic shoes - specially designed for people with foot problems.
Skating shoes - typically called skates. They have various attachments for skating on the bottom of the shoe portion.
Ice Skates
Figure skating
Speed skating
Ice skating
Roller skates
Roller blades
Ski boots should be covered under boots or skiing
Skateboarding shoes- used for skateboarding, but worn by many teens for fashion
Cycling shoes are equipped with a metal cleat to interface with clipless pedals
Sneaker boots and sneaker pumps - a shoe that looks like an athletic shoe, but is equiped with a high heel and thus makes it hard to be used for anything but as dress shoes.
RedWine
01-21-2006, 07:52 AM
Dancing shoes
Dance shoes - special shoes made for tap dancing. They make the tapping noise while the tap-dancer dances.
Pointe shoes - shoes designed for professional ballet dancing.
Tango/Flamenco dnce shoes.
RedWine
01-21-2006, 07:52 AM
Shoe etiquette
In most parts of the world (Asia, Eastern Europe, parts of the Middle East and Africa, much of Northern Europe and Canada, as well as Alaska) it is customary to remove shoes when returning to one's own home or visiting others. In the US it is not a "custom", but it is very common. People do this to avoid tracking in dirt, mud, snow, or other unpleasant things stepped on in the street. This is because people in most countries wish to keep their homes and carpets clean. On the other hand, in some countries (e.g. the US and Western Europe) some people are displeased if others take shoes off in their company. It is often explained by foot odor. However, some Americans leave their shoes on when returning to their own home, even if there is no one around to offend by potential foot odor. This practice is however unhygenic, as it exacerbates the odor by providing ideal conditions for fungal infections such as athlete's foot and other diseases of the feet. In almost all parts of the world, people will remove their shoes if they have been walking through snow or mud; this applies to countries where the "foot odor" stigma exists as well. It might be mentioned that foot odor results partly from wearing shoes for many hours; this is a possible explanation for the "foot odor" fear in countries where shoes are worn for most of the day. People in these countries sometimes do not remove their shoes until they absolutely must, for example, bathing or going to sleep. However foot odor can develop in even a short amount of time, and depends also on the type of socks, shoes and the individual.
People wearing specialized types of shoes, such as snow boots, work boots, or high heels, often remove their shoes upon returning to their homes. This is true even in countries where shoes are not normally taken off.
In the Middle East and Thailand, it is considered rude to show the soles of the feet to others (even accidentally, such as by crossing the legs). In addition, in Thailand, it is an extreme insult for the foot, socks, or shoes to touch someone's head or be placed over it. Although feet touching heads is an extremely rare occurrence in any society, some Muay Thai boxers insult each other by "kicking" the opponent's head with their foot (most Muay Thai kicks are executed with the shin).
Sitting in trains it is often allowed to put one's feet on the opposite seat, provided that one takes one's shoes off or put them on a newspaper, piece of clothing, bag, etc., to avoid possible dirtying of the seat. Many people in Western countries put their feet up on the seat in front of them in movie theaters, although this is considered rude by some.
RedWine
01-23-2006, 04:45 AM
Unfortunately, many shirts do need ironing - but if you learn to do it yourself, you'll save enough on dry-cleaning to buy several more.
Steps:
1. Find the tag on your shirt that indicates what it's made of.
2. Plug in the iron and set the dial to the recommended setting for that fabric. 100-percent cotton and linen need a high setting; wools and cotton blends call for medium heat; polyester, rayon, nylon, silk, acetate and acrylic all need a low heat setting.
3. Fill the iron with distilled water if you will be using the "steam" setting on cottons or linens.
4. Iron the back of the collar first, then the front, taking care to iron in from the edges a little at a time to avoid creases.
5. Open cuffs fully. Iron inside first, then outside.
6. Iron sleeves after smoothing them flat to avoid creases. Do sleeve backs first, fronts second and take extra care on armhole seams.
7. Hang shirt over board so that one front panel of the shirt can be extended flat (collar at narrower end of board). Iron from shoulder to shirttail.
8. Rotate shirt over board so that you iron the back next, and the other front panel last.
RedWine
01-24-2006, 05:59 AM
Shampoo not only washes your hair, it keeps it healthy and strong. Make sure you're using the best shampoo for your hair type.
Steps:
1. Identify your hair type. Is it oily? Normal? Consult your hairdresser if necessary.
2. Feel lucky if you have normal hair. Choose a shampoo that is made specifically for normal hair, and make sure it's meant for daily or every-other-day washes.
3. Choose a gentle shampoo that is made specifically for oily hair and/or for daily use, if your hair gets greasy. Make sure it has ingredients like tea tree oil, sage oil and chamomile.
4. Opt for a moisturizing shampoo for curly hair, and a protein-based shampoo for kinky hair.
5. Read the label on a protein-based shampoo and make sure that protein is listed as one of the first ingredients, followed by shea butter, glycerin, sulfur or carotene.
6. Use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner every day for hair that's been dyed, bleached or highlighted.
Warnings:
Avoid conditioning shampoos if you have oily hair.
Tips
If you have color treated hair, don't use regular shampoo's because they will fade your color faster. Use shampoo/conditioner for color treated hair only. The others have more detergent in them and will fade your color a lot faster. Wash your hair in lukewarm water, not hot, and rinse with cool water and a shot of cold water. It really works, and it makes your hair shine and the color last longer!
RedWine
01-25-2006, 04:38 AM
Love to shop? Turn that passion into a money-making venture and become a personal shopper. Yes, you can get paid to shop for others!
Steps:
1. Get some experience. Retail sales will give you a great foundation. You'll be in touch with products, trends, brand names and price points.
2. Do your research. If you want to dress someone else, you must know a lot about that person's profession, including what they need to wear and what styles and colors are acceptable. Talk to store buyers and flip through the monthly fashion magazines to keep up with trends and hot new labels.
3. Take notes and build a library. Log everything you did and didn't sell to a client, why you chose it and how the client did with the purchase. Analyze the trends and develop your own ideas about how they can be worked into a man's or a woman's wardrobe.
4. Make the transition from being a popular sales associate at a department store to being a personal shopper. Show store management the amount of revenue you've brought in over a year and your thick address book of active clients. Get written testimonials from your regulars about how much they value your services and trust your skills.
5. Go solo by organizing your skills and marketing your portfolio. Start with colleagues from your previous profession, friends, relatives and neighbors. Target busy men and women whose professions dictate a certain dress and leave them little time or energy to get their closets together.
6. Get on the phone or send e-mail. Whether you're employed by a store or working solo, your clients are busy - that's why they've enlisted your services. It's up to you to tell them all about the latest styles that complement their wardrobes.
Tips:
Know your client's budget and respect it. Always offer your clients a variety of options, but avoid exceeding their budgets. You'll establish a bond and trust with your clients and keep them coming back for your services.
Diversify your offerings. Give your clients the option of using your services for corporate or family gift giving. Target Christmas well in advance, and over time become acquainted with the special dates your clients and their relatives may celebrate: anniversaries, birthdays, graduations and so forth.
RedWine
01-28-2006, 07:06 AM
model is a person who acts as a human prop for purposes of art, fashion, advertising, pornography, etc.
Modeling is distinguished from other types of public performance, such as an acting, dancing or mime artistry, although the boundary is probably not well defined. Appearing in a movie or a play is generally not considered to be modeling, irrespective of the nature of the role. But many models can also describe themselves as actors. Some models have acquired the status of sex symbol, and a highly paid model is sometimes known as a "supermodel." Supermodels are celebrities who may appear in advertisements endorsing products, and often parlay their fame into acting careers, or other areas of the entertainment or fashion industry.
Non-professional models who appear on the list of women's magazines on which any magazine's name is, are known by the name of "reader model."
"Runway modeling," also known as "catwalk modeling," is displaying fashion, and is generally performed by "fashion models." "Glamour modeling" usually includes elements of nudity or eroticism, while "nude modeling" describes any kind of modeling that is performed without clothes. Art school modeling (usually figure drawing or sculpture) involves posing for students of art. Some models specialize in having a particular portion of their body photographed, usually for advertisement purposes; thus "leg models" advertise hosiery, "hand models" advertise nail polish or gloves, et cetera.
For notable models, see supermodel and glamour photography.
RedWine
01-28-2006, 07:07 AM
A supermodel is a highly paid fashion model in an elite group with a worldwide reputation. In an article in Glamour Magazine in 1968, author described Twiggy, Cheryl Tiegs, Verushka, Jean Shrimpton and fifteen other top models as "Supermodels"The term "Supermodel" gained currency by analogy with Andy Warhol's "superstars" of the 1960s, and, like "superstardom", it has been conflated to include almost anyone who finds steady access to work, with top designers, fashion magazines and commercial clients; uncommon in the highly volatile fashion industry. In the early 60s the term "top models" was used by magazines/fashion critics to define famous and highly paid models, way before the term "supermodel" became popular. Today, these two terms are used to define two different groups. "Supermodels" according to Tyra Banks are famous highly paid models, and "top models" are noted fashion models.
While the term gained popularity in the 1980s, a number of models had become famous in their own right as far back as Dorian Leigh in the late 1940s. Amongst the first models whose name and face were familiar to those outside the fashion industry include Suzy Parker, a model in the 1950s, and Cheryl Tiegs in the 1960s. Others claim that Janice Dickinson has the right to the title of first supermodel since she is credited with the coining the term in 1979. However, as shown by the 1968 article in Glamour, she did not coin the phrase, but gained wide notoriety by publicly proclaiming herself as "The World's First Supermodel". Still others claim Lisa Fonssagrives, wife of two photographers, first of Fernand Fonssagrives and then Irving Penn, to be the world's first supermodel; none have surpassed her over 200 covers of Vogue alone. She was in every fashion magazine during the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s from Town and Country, Life, Life, Vogue, and the original Vanity Fair to the cover of Time. Jean Shrimpton, Colleen Corby, Twiggy as well as Veruschka (all from the mid- Sixties) have claim to the title of Supermodel too.
The high point of the supermodel era was in the 1980s and 1990s, with some of the most famous being "The Trinity" of Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, and Christy Turlington. Also in this era, models like Paulina Porizkova paved the way for an influx of Eastern European models. It was at this time that Cindy Crawford successfully leveraged her modelling fame into hosting her own television show, MTV's House of Style, creating and promoting many exercise video tapes, and posing in Playboy (she was the first supermodel/model to do all of these).
Supermodels are, almost by definition, sex symbols. Supermodels of today are globally famous, and parlay their celebrity into product endorsement deals and often into acting careers. Supermodels who have also made the switch include Milla Jovovich, Elle Macpherson, Rebecca Romijn, and Tricia Helfer.
According to Forbes magazine, as of 2004, the five highest-paid supermodels in the world were, in descending order, Milla Jovovich, Gisele Bündchen, Heidi Klum, Caroline Murphy, and Tyra Banks. VH1's recent episode of The Fabulous Life Of...Supermodels included Naomi Campbell as among the top 3 wealthiest supermodels in the world.
In the past almost all, and even today most supermodels are female; however, more and more male models are also becoming famous. The position of the world's most famous and highest paid male supermodel is currently usually contested between Jamaican-American actor and model Tyson Beckford, and Dutch-Swedish model and bodybuilder Marcus Schenkenberg; as well as Mark Vanderloo and Brad Kroenig.
In 2005, tired of hearing this label attached to so many people, the musician LeCain played devil's advocate and commented that a 'measure of success' was necessary to stop TV from tirelessly using the term for every girl wanting model stardom. He threw into the equation that a supermodel was someone that had attained US$20 million in the duration of their career.
RedWine
01-28-2006, 07:09 AM
Glamour photography is the photographing of a model (nowadays usually female, often nude or semi-nude), in a way that is intended to be erotic.
What is considered "glamour" has changed with the times. In the 1940s, clothed "pin-up" pictures were "glamour." Many movie stars were featured in pin-up poses showing them in swimsuits. In the 1950s and early 1960s, photographers such as Peter Gowland produced glamour images with partial nudity.
Nude glamour photography has been claimed by its practitioners and admirers to be non-pornographic to the extent it does not involve the depiction of sex acts. People who disapprove of nude or semi-nude photography may pejoratively label it pornography.
Nude or semi-nude pictures of glamour models typically appear in "softcore" adult magazines (so-called "girlie magazines") such as Playboy or in the pages of European tabloid newspapers