The Other Iran

[Rasputin]

[Rasputin]

www.travel.state.govwww.key2persia.comwww.abbasihotel.com) was built in the shell of a Safavid-era caravansary. The rooms are modest, but the public areas are not, especially the grandiose central courtyard, which has a large reflecting pool flanked by arched bays. Doubles start at 1,287,000 rials, about $134 at 9,600 rials to $1.

While wandering through the alleys west of the Bozorg Bazaar, I stumbled upon the Isfahan Traditional Hotel (Hakim Street; 98-311-223-6677; www.isfahanhotel.com), where I would stay if I were to return. A dozen rooms surround a lovely and hidden courtyard. Doubles are 615,000 rials.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Whether you eat at a highway truck stop or at an expensive traditional restaurant, the culinary offerings in Iran are usually identical: lamb, chicken or mince kebabs (average meal about $5). I ate them at least once, and often twice, a day, so other options, like the quince and squash stew at the Bastani Restaurant (southeast corner of Imam Square; 98-311-220-0374) were welcome breaks.

At the north end of the square is the Qeysarieh Tea Shop. The service is indifferent at best, but I went several times to sit on the outdoor terrace, puff on a qalyan, and admire the second-story view over the entire square.