View Full Version : Necktie For Men
RedWine
12-07-2006, 05:15 AM
The necktie (or tie) is a long piece of woven or knitted material worn around the neck, under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat with the blades resting on the shirt front. The modern necktie, ascot and bow tie, are descended from the cravat. Ties are mainly worn by men as a regular part of office attire, formal wear or uniform. A few women also wear ties as part of a uniform (e.g. military, school), office attire or as a fashion accessory.
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/4391/113pxnecktiefq1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
A cravat is the neckband forerunner of the modern, tailored necktie. From the end of the 16th century, the term "band" applied to any long-strip neckcloth that was not a "ruff"; the ruff—a starched, pleated white linen strip—started its fashion career earlier in the 16th century as neckcloth that could be changed-a-fresh to keep the neck of a doublet from becoming too-soiled or as a bib or a napkin. A "band" could indicate a plain, attached shirt collar or a detachable "falling band" that draped over the doublet collar.
The modern cravat originated in the 1630s. Like most men's fashions between the 17th century and World War I, it had a military origin. In the reign of Louis XIII of France, Croatian mercenaries were enlisted to a regiment supporting the King and Cardinal Richelieu against the Duc de Guise and the Queen Mother, Marie de Medici. The traditional military kit of the Croats aroused parisian curiosity in and about the unusual, picturesque scarves distinctively knotted about their necks. The scarves were made of cloths ranging from the coarse-finish material of common soldiers, to the fine linens and silks of the officers' cravats. The word "cravat" derives from the French cravate; many sources state it is a French corruption of "Croat"—Croatian "Hrvat"—however evidence shows the word use in 14th century France and in 16th century Italy. In a ballad, French writer Eustache Deschamps (c. 1340–1407), wrote the phrase "faites restraindre sa cravate" ("pull his cravat tighter").
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/4031/495pxneckclothitania181gb9.gif (http://imageshack.us)
Considering the interdependency of many European regions (particularly the French) with the Venetian Empire, and that said empire once occupied most of Croatian coast, cross-culturalization would not be unprecedented. Whatever the word's origin, the new element of male dress became known as a cravate and the French quite readily surrendered the starched linen ruff and adopted the new neck fashion of loose cravates of linen or muslin with broad lace edges.
On returning to England from exile, in 1660, Charles II took back with him the latest, new word in fashion:
"A cravatte is another kind of adornment for the neck being nothing else but a long towel put about the Collar, and so tyed before with a Bow Knott; this is the original of all such Wearings; but now by the Art and Inventions of the seamsters, there is so many new ways of making them, that it would be a task to name, much more to describe them". (Randle Holme, Academy of Armory and Blazon, 1688.
A gentleman's cravat would be made of fine lace. Grinling Gibbonsthe famous carver and sculptor, carved a realistic cravat from white limewood.
During the wars of Louis XIV of 1689–1697, except for court occasions, the flowing cravat was replaced with the more current and equally military "Stein***k", named for the Battle of Steenkerque in 1692. The Stein***k was a long, narrow, plain or lightly trimmed neckcloth worn with military dress, wrapped once about the neck in a loose knot, with the lace of fringed ends twisted together and tucked out of the way into a button-hole (coat or waistcoat). The stein***k proved popular with both men and women until the 1720s.
The macaronis reintroduced the flowing cravat in the 1770s, and the manner of a man's knotting it became indicative of his personal taste and sense of style, to such extent that after Waterloo (1815) the neckwear itself was referred to as a "tie".
RedWine
12-07-2006, 05:17 AM
Tie variants
The cravat also spawned the following variants which are still worn today:
19th century: Bow tie; the process of the cravat changing into the bow was gradual, and a definite line is difficult to draw.
1850s: Four-in-hand, see below; also known as the "long tie", it is the variety most people mean when they just say "tie".
1880s: Ascot tie.
1940s: Bola tie (also called a string tie or bolo tie); a tie from the Southwest United States consisting of a cord with a clasp.
Clip-on tie
Four-in-hand
The four-in-hand necktie was fashionable in Britain in the 1850s. Early neckties were simple, rectangular cloth strips cut on the square, with square ends. The name "four-in-hand" originally described a carriage with four horses and a driver; it also later was the name of a gentlemen's club in London. Some etymologic reports state that carriage drivers knotted their reins with a four-in-hand knot, whilst others claim the carriage drivers wore their scarves knotted in the four-in-hand manner, but, most likely, members of the club began wearing their neckties so knotted, thus making it fashionable. In the latter half of the 19th century, the four-in-hand knot and the four-in-hand necktie were synonymous. As fashion changed from stiff shirt collars to soft, turned-down collars, the four-in-hand necktie knot gained popularity; its sartorial dominance rendered the term "four-in-hand" redundant usage, shortened "long tie" and "tie".
In 1926, Jesse Langsdorf from New York introduced ties cut on the bias (US) or cross-grain (UK), allowing the tie to evenly fall from the knot without twisting; this also caused any woven pattern such as stripes to appear diagonally across the tie.
There are four main knots used to knot neckties. The simplest, the four-in-hand knot, probably is used by the majority of wearers. The others (in order of difficulty) are the Pratt knot (the Shelby knot), the half-Windsor knot, and the Windsor knot (also erroneously called the "double-Windsor"). The Windsor knot is the thickest knot of the four, since its tying has the most steps. The Windsor knot is named after the Duke of Windsor, although neither its inventor nor user.
The Duke did favour a voluminous knot, however he achieved such by having neckties specially made of thicker cloths. In the late 1990s, two researchers, Thomas Fink and Yong Mao of Cambridge University's Cavendish Laboratory, used mathematical modelling to discovered that eighty-five (85) knots (within the constraints of wearing a necktie) are possible with a conventional tie. They found that in addition to the four well-known knots, six other knots have aesthetically pleasing results.
Today, four-in-hand ties are part of men's formal clothing in both Western and non-Western societies, particularly for business. They have also found their way to the wardrobes of trail-blazing, fashionable women.
Four-in-hand ties are generally made from silk or cotton. They appear in an unlimited number of colors and patterns, notably striped (diagonally) and paisley.
Some psychologists think that wearing a long necktie is a man's subconscious effort to draw female eyes towards his genitalia.
RedWine
12-07-2006, 05:19 AM
The use of coloured and patterned neckties indicating the wearer's membership in a club, military regiment, school, et cetera, dates only from late-nineteenth century England. The first, definite occurrence was in 1880, when Exeter College, Oxford rowers took the College-colour ribbons from their straw boaters and wore them as neckties (knotted four-in-hand), and then went on to order a proper set of ties in the same colours, thus creating the first example of a College necktie.
Soon other colleges followed suit, as well as schools, universities, and clubs. At about the same time, the British military moved from dressing in brightly and distinctively coloured uniforms to subdued and discreet uniforms, and they used neckties to retain regimental colours.
The most common pattern for such ties was, and remains, diagonal stripes of alternating colours (running down the tie from the left in the UK and most of Europe, and running down from the right in the U.S.). A frequent alternative is either a single emblem or a crest centred and placed where a tie pin normally would be, or a repeated pattern of such motifs. Sometimes, both types are used by an organisation, either simply to offer a choice or to indicate a distinction among and levels of membership. Occasionally, a hybrid design is used, in which alternating stripes of colour are overlaid with repeated motif pattern.
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/8476/450pxandovertiescg8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
RedWine
12-07-2006, 05:20 AM
Removing the necktie as a social and sartorial requirement (and in some cases the forbidding of ties) is a modern trend that historians attribute to the rise of popular culture in the 1960s. While still common as late as 1966, over the years 1967 to 1969, the necktie began falling completely out of fashion nearly everywhere, except where required. After a brief fashion resurgence in the 1980s, the 1990s saw the appearance of Internet-based (or dot-com) companies, where most workers did not feel the need for formal dress when facing clients, since the business's public image and appearance was websites rather than face-to-face meetings. There also was a sentiment of independence (general liberalism) and a new way of doing things.
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/9731/799pxtietrackervs8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Large teams of telephone-salespeople also were increasing as pools of workers. Many such men and women were required to wear neckties, because it was perceived as improving work attitudes, morale, and sales. Casual Fridays became a very popular tradition in that time, in which employees were not required to wear ties on Fridays, and then — increasingly — on other, announced, special days. Some businesses extended casual-dress days to Thursday, and even Wednesday; others required neckties only on Monday (to start the work week).
Eric Crown, CEO of Insight Direct, which was beginning to effect substantial on-line sales via website, along with more than $1 billion yearly dollars telephone sales, announced one morning, in 1995, that none of its 800 telephone salesmen would any longer be required to wear a necktie. After studying casual-dress day sales patterns, management announced the decision by having each salesman's necktie cut in half with scissors, by the receptionist, as they entered the workplace lobby.
RedWine
12-07-2006, 05:21 AM
Ties are popularly given as gifts and wearers often accumulate a large collection. While a man's selection of suit and shirt is somewhat restricted for business wear, he usually faces more difficulty in choosing a tie. Even a conservative dresser may entertain a dozen possibilities and these must be considered in light of the day's other clothing. This daily chore has given rise to the tie rack. These may be simple panels of pins or elaborate revolving, motorized, illuminated gadgets.
donsaeid
12-07-2006, 09:44 AM
kheili in mozo bekar miad merci sia
RedWine
12-07-2006, 09:51 AM
kheili in mozo bekar miad merci sia
Agar khasti, man yek seri Fig (Picture) daram keh kheili rahat yad mideh chetori kravat bebandi az aval ta akhar !
Kheili ha balad nistan,eshkali ham nadareh chounkeh javunha beh nazareh man ta 25-26 salegi bayad rahat lebas bepushan,kravat yek meghdar senn ro mibareh bala va shayad ham beh dard jahaei keh javunha miran nakhoreh ! ,man khodam faghat in army tie estefadeh mikardam and when i was a pilot ! alan ham is for my job,seminary, clients,confrences and etc.. ghablesh balad nabudam.
vali senne adam keh bala mireh, az tie khoshesh miad, in kamelan normal hast.makhsusan vaghti keh shoma beh Omid-e Khoda dcotro beshi, hatman bayad tie bezani :=) .
RedWine
01-20-2007, 09:55 AM
How to tie a necktie
Which knot for my tie? Use the Double Windsor for thin materials such as silk, and with wider ties. Hand-knit or woollen ties are too thick for the Double Windsor; use a Four-in-hand when you need a smaller knot.
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Button your collar at the neck. Then fold it up so that you can slip the tie easily around your neck. This helps you tie it in the right spot the first time, and also helps prevent wrinkling and stretching the tie fabric.
The standard neck-tie: Some people prefer the ends to be exactly the same length after you've finished. Unfortunately, ties usually come in one size only, so it's hard to say where the ends will meet up. A tie that only hangs to the belly-button looks cheap; one that hangs over your pants fly is also tacky. Even worse--when the broad end of the tie is outdistanced by the narrow end. Instead, the tip of the broad end should extend just to the top of your belt buckle.
Sounds tricky? Fortunately, there's a good general rule to follow. To begin, drape the necktie around your collar so that the seam of the tie is lying along the collar. The broad end should be on the side of your dominant hand--if you are left-handed, the broad end should be on your left side. Now for the measuring trick: place the tip of the narrow end just above the fourth button down your shirt (the one above your navel), and eliminate the slack by pulling down on the broad end. Again, the tie seam should remain hidden in the back.
Another measuring trick is to let the broad end hang down twice as long as the narrow end. To check if you've done this right, fold the broad end in half up towards your neck. The folded portion should be equal in length to the narrow end.
Tie the Four-in-hand knot
This is the basic knot fashion. Master this one and you'll be prepared for most semi-formal events.
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Grasp the narrow end about three inches (8 cm) down from your neck with your nondominant hand. This is the spot where you will make the knot. Take the broad end with your dominant hand and pass it across and over the spot, and hold it there with your nondominant hand.
Bring the broad end around behind the spot, then around and over again. Then pull the broad end behind the spot and up through the "V" at the top.
Let the broad end flop over and hang down. Now tuck it between the top wrap of the tie and the place you have been holding. Use both hands to straighten the knot and pull it tight.
Pull the knot gently but firmly. Look at the tie in the mirror. Is it straight? Does the broad end hang down too far, or not far enough? Loosen the tie if need be, and readjust the length of the narrow end as needed so that your tie will be the proper length after the knot has been tightened. The Four-in-hand knot will be slightly larger on one side than the other. The knot should be smoothly wrapped, not wrinkled or folded over on itself. If you need to, take a moment to fuss with the knot so that it looks even and the rest of the tie hangs down straight.
Oh, and turn your collar down. Button down the collarbone buttons.
http://www.mckinnonsc.vic.edu.au/school/ties/05372bg.gif
The Double Windsor takes its name from the double wrap that is part of its construction. Political and business leaders seem to favor this knot, along with foreign royalty. You tie it similarly to the Four-in-hand--just duplicate the single wrap of the Four-in-hand. It's a little more difficult to pull together in the tightening stage. So go slowly and be prepared to loosen the knot and re-tighten as necessary. Finally, the Windsor is a bigger knot; allow yourself a little more length on the broad end.
Grasp the narrow end about two inches (6cm) down from your neck with your nondominant hand. This is the spot where you will make the knot. Take the broad end with your dominant hand and pass it across and over the spot, and hold it there with your nondominant hand.
Now, pass the broad end around behind once, then out in front, then down through the top of the "Y" and back out to the same side again.
RedWine
01-20-2007, 09:56 AM
http://www.mckinnonsc.vic.edu.au/school/ties/05373bg.gif
Wrap again the broad end across, behind and up through the back of the "Y." Let the broad end hang down, and then tuck it between the last wrap and the spot you have been holding.
Pull the knot together gently. This is a crucial step with the Double Windsor. There are two actions here--tightening the funnel-shape knot, and then sliding that knot up to your collar.
While the knot is still loose, remove your nondominant hand from the innards of the knot. Use it to grasp the bottom of the broad end. Then, while pulling on the broad end, use your dominant hand to squeeze and jostle the funnel-shaped knot into the right form. Make sure the first, smaller wrap of the knot doesn't slip down the narrow end. Instead, coax it into the larger outer wrap. Now slide the almost finished knot up towards your collar. At this point you can tighten the knot more firmly by pulling on the narrow end. Ideally there's a dimple created just below the pointed end of the funnel-shaped knot.
Look at the tie in the mirror. Is it straight? Does the broad end hang down too far, or not far enough? Loosen the tie if need be, and readjust the length of the narrow end as needed so that your tie will be the proper length when the knot has been tightened. The knot should be smoothly wrapped, not wrinkled or folded over on itself. If you need to, take a moment to fuss with the knot so it looks even, and so the rest of the tie hangs down straight.
TIE TIPS
Tie it in front of a mirror!
Give yourself a few extra minutes when tying a tie for the first time. Allow yourself time to re-tie the knot higher or lower until you get it the right length. Part of good grooming means paying attention to the details. Those who are important to you will notice and appreciate the effort.
When slipping the broad end through the knot, push a loop through with your finger, then pull the rest through. This helps keep the knot together.
Look for the spot on the tie where the narrow end becomes wider. This will often be the best place to pass the broad end over the narrow end. Try tying the tie with this widening section laying on top of the narrow end's knot spot. Even if it does not make the perfect knot for you, it gives you a good way of gauging the distance the second time around.
The knot should stay snug on top of the collar button. A tie that is too tight will creep up the collar, not too mention reddening your face and making it difficult to breathe! A loosened tie looks sloppy and is a sign that you are not paying attention.
"I followed the directions but it doesn't look right." Don't despair. Many foul-looking knots have been transformed by a little knot cleaning. This involves loosening the knot slightly, removing any wrinkles in the fabric, squeezing the knot into shape, and re-tightening it. Try it three times-- and then start again from scratch.
When untying a tie never just pull the narrow end out. Simply follow the directions in reverse.
RedWine
04-29-2007, 11:29 AM
Iranian police have warned barbers not to give men western hair styles or use make up on them.
The move is part of an unusually fierce crackdown on what is known locally as bad hijab, or un-Islamic clothing, that this year is also targeting men.
Hair stylists have been warned that they could lose their licenses if they do not comply.
However, police have denied a report that they have ordered barbers not to serve customers wearing ties.
Wild
Police say that as well as avoiding western hairstyles and make up, barbers should not pluck customers' eyebrows.
Some young boys in Iran sport very wild hair styles , using gel to make their long hair stand on end in a fashion not seen in other countries.
Meanwhile newspapers in Iran have quoted the police as saying that 16,000 women and 500 men have been cautioned in the last week over their improper clothing.
It is not clear if these figures are nationwide or only apply to the capital, Tehran.
Iranian television has said the crackdown on un-Islamic clothing has entered its second phase now where mobile police units will patrol Tehran to look for those who are not observing Islamic dress properly.
According to the local media, Tehran's public prosecutor has suggested women who violate dress rules should be exiled from the capital to remote areas of the country.
A member of the parliament's legal committee has said there is no legal impediment to doing this.
RedWine
06-23-2007, 07:34 AM
My 3 fav.Ties for this summer 07 :=) .
Brand: Croata - with story
Material: silk
Colour: blue
Length: regular
Quality: jacquard
Pattern: small pattern
http://www.croata.hr/data/1-2082-pl/vslika.jpg
Brand: Croata
Colour: green
Length: regular
Quality: jacquard
Pattern: various patterns
Motif: Braiding
Story:
Braiding is the most frequent ornament of the Early Croatian stone monuments from the period of the Croatian princes and kings (the early Middle ages) and is much loved by the Croats. Since ancient times it has adorned their ceremonial robes and given them an elevated tone.
Its refinement and elegant forms are very close to the gentle nature of the cloth on which braiding reveals its true element and braids threads still more lovely than those in the stone.
With fineness and filigree forms, braiding is an inexhaustible source of inspiration to fashion designers. Connoisseurs have good reason for placing these lovely and imaginative creations among the most beautiful patterns on offer from Croata fashion brand.
http://www.croata.hr/data/1-2106-ze/vslika.jpg
Brand: Croata
Material: silk
Colour: blue
Length: regular
Quality: jacquard
Pattern: lines - regimentale
Motif: Dubrovnik
Story:
From the 14th century to the Napoleonic era, Dubrovnik was free republic whose economic power can best be demonstrated by the fact that in the year 1800. she had a network of consulates in over 80 cities and ports, a fact that even larger European states cannot boast.
Dubrovnik with its magnificent palaces is listed in UNESCO's register of world cultural heritage and is the best known Croatian tourist centre in the world. The beauty of its gem among cities is proudly revealed in the designs of the Croata label.
http://www.croata.hr/data/1-2133-pl/vslika.jpg
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