ohoooooooooooo
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مجلس ايران طرح "ساماندهی مد و لباس" را تصويب و همه دستگاه های دولتی را موظف کرده است برای کارمندان خود امکان تهيه لباس های منطبق با الگوهای ايرانی - اسلامی را فراهم کنند.
بررسی اين طرح يازده ماده ای از اواسط مهرماه سال جاری آغاز و تا روز دوشنبه (اول آبان) هشت ماده آن تصويب شده بود. روز گذشته نمايندگان مجلس شورای اسلامی با تصويب سه ماده باقی مانده، اين طرح را به تصويب نهايی رساندند.
اکنون اين طرح برای اجرا بايد به تائيد شورای نگهبان برسد.
بر اساس ماده 9 اين طرح تمامی دستگاه های دولتی در ايران موظفند از بودجه سنواتی رديف های خدماتی - رفاهی خود برای ترغيب تقاضای پارچه و آنچه لباس ايرانی - اسلامی خوانده شده، تسهيلات خريد لباس های مذکور را در اختيار کارکنان خود قرار دهند.
بنابر ماده 10 طرح ساماندهی لباس و مد، وزارتخانه های علوم، تحقيقات و فناوری و فرهنگ و ارشاد اسلامی نيز موظف شده اند از تحقيقات و رساله های تخصصی مرتبط با اين طرح حمايت کنند.
طبق ماده يازده اين طرح، آيين نامه اجرايی اين قانون بايد توسط وزارت فرهنگ و ارشاد اسلامی و همچنين وزرات بازرگانی تهيه و بعد از آن به تصويب هيئت وزيران برسد.
کليات طرح ساماندهی مد و لباس در روز 24 ارديبهشت (14 مه) به تصويب نمايندگان مجلس شورای اسلامی رسيده بود.
پيشتر كميسيون فرهنگی كليات اين طرح را در ششم شهريورما سال 1384 تصويب کرده بود، اما كميسيون*های امنيت ملی و سياست خارجی و برنامه و بودجه و محاسبات كليات اين طرح را رد كرده بودند.
در حالی که کميسيون امنيت ملی و سياست خارجی در آن زمان دليل مخالفت خود را اعلام نکرده بود برخی از نمايندگان مجلس از جمله گفته بودند که قانونی کردن چنين طرحی منجر به تعطيلی بسياری از خطوط توليد لباس و مد خواهد شد به فرايندی ده ساله نياز دارد تا مردم در برابر آن مقاومت نکنند.
اکنون در صورت تاييد مصوبه مجلس توسط شورای نگهبان، وزارت فرهنگ و ارشاد اسلامی مكلف خواهد شد برای اجرای آن كميته* ای متشكل از يک نماينده تام الاختيار از هر كدام از وزارتخانه*های فرهنگ و ارشاد اسلامی، بازرگانی و صنايع و معادن و سازمان های صدا و سيما، مديريت و برنامه ريزی و يک نماينده از كميسيون فرهنگی مجلس تشكيل دهد.
اين كميته به منظور آنچه "حفظ و تقويت فرهنگ و هويت ايرانی - اسلامی، ارج نهادن، تثبيت و ترويج الگوهای پوشش ملی، هدايت بازار توليد و عرضه البسه و پوشاک براساس طرح ها و الگوهای داخلی و درجهت ترغيب عموم مردم به پرهيز از انتخاب و مصرف الگوهای بيگانه و غير مانوس با فرهنگ و هويت ايرانی" خوانده شده است، تشكيل می شود.
همچنين در ماده دوم اين طرح ، وزارت ارشاد و صدا و سيما "مكلفند درجهت ترويج نمادها و الگوهای پارچه و لباس ايرانی و بومی مناطق مختلف ايران و نمادها و الگوهای مورد تاييد كميته ياد شده را تشويق و ترغيب و تبليغ كنند و در جهت پرهيز از تبليغ الگوهای مغاير با فرهنگ ايرانی - اسلامی اهتمام جدی بورزند."
اين طرح، تبليغ الگوهای لباس را که مغاير با فرهنگ ايرانی اسلامی شناخته شوند به هر نحوی ممنوع می کند و وزارت فرهنگ و ارشاد اسلامی و صدا و سيما را ملزم می سازد الگوهای مورد تأييد را ترغيب و تبليغ کنند.
اين در حالی است که سال گذشته عماد افروغ رئيس کميسيون فرهنگی مجلس اعلام کرده بود که طرح ساماندهی مد و لباس اجباری نيست و رويکرد ترغيبی و حمايتی دارد و خارج از تصديگری دولت است.
شيوه پوشش مردم در ايران همواره يکی از دغدغه های حکومت ها بوده است.
iran
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Designer Behnaz Sarafpour brings energy to Target
She first made her mark selling expensive ready-to-wear clothes to Saks Fifth Avenue and Jeffrey stores in Atlanta and New York.
Now, Behnaz Sarafpour has designed a collection for Target so the masses can enjoy her snappy collection of minis***ts, lace-trimmed sweaters, dresses and a too-cool black trench coat.
"My inspiration came from the energy and nightlife in New York," said the Iranian-born Sarafpour. "The fashion is fun and glamorous yet uncomplicated, and ultra-chic, at the same time.
"New Yorkers always look fabulous, as if they didn't try too hard. That's the idea behind my designs."
Her Target collection, part of the store's Go International series, will be available starting Wednesday and run through December. Prices range from $14.99 for a T-shirt to $89.99 for a Persian lamb jacket. Accessories, including jewelry and bags, range from $7.99 to $39.99.
By designing for Target, Sarafpour follows in the footsteps of her mentor, Isaac Mizrahi, who designs chic clothing and accessories for the retailer. But several other well-known designers are offering collections at both ends of the price spectrum.
Low-priced Swedish retailer H&M has lured European designers Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Viktor & Rolf to its label. In addition to the Very Vera by Vera Wang collection for Kohl's, the retailer also carries model Daisy Fuentes' line of casual separates.
Sarafpour, 36, is the fourth rotating designer to partner with Target in the limited-edition series. Others tapped to do affordable clothing and accessories have included English designer Luella Bartley and French designers Tara Jarmon and Sophie Albou. The latter designs for the label Paul & Joe.
"Go International actually gives a global message to a brand that is simply geared to designer consumers," said Roseanne Morrison, fashion director of fashion and retail trend forecaster the Doneger Group. "Even though Vera Wang is a bridal designer, her collaboration with Kohl's [next year] will bring her brand to another level and provide a new design element to sportswear collections.
"Design is important to consumers at all price levels."
So far, Target has been "thrilled" with the series, said spokesman Joshua Thomas. "By making global fashion accessible and affordable, it differentiates us from other fashion retailers." At this time, Target has no announcement regarding future design partnerships.
As for Sarafpour, she hopes that women will wear her ready-to-wear label with her Target clothing.
"That's what fashion is all about," she said, "mixing your expensive pieces with your favorite affordable pieces."
Trend tracker Morrison agrees that there's not a conflict of interest between Sarafpour's two labels. "Upscale designs are specialized in superior fabrics and quality," she said. "But it ultimately benefits the customer to have a taste of design that has only existed in another price sphere."
The Behnaz Sarafpour collection is available Wednesday at select Target stores and is online at www.target.com.
iran
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Our beloved New York City fashion designer Behnaz Sarafpour has just kicked it up a notch. Striking a deal with one of the largest discount stores in the US, Target, Behnaz has managed to chisel her name in the iconic world of fab fashion designers gone discount. Yes, our Behnaz is up there with the likes of Isaac Mizrahi, Cynthia Rowley and Karl Lagerfeld. And it is a brilliant move!
The Target website currently has a feature section on Behnaz. The site includes a video commercial, a video interview, and a brief bio proudly announcing that she is Iranian-born. Yes - we know we have come a long way when it is okay to tell mainstream America that your clothes have been designed by an Iranian! Dare I say, it is chic.
Behnaz began her design career at New York's prestigious Parsons School of Design, where she won the Golden Thimble Award. She has worked with some of the world's biggest fashion names, including Richard Tyler and Narciso Rodriguez. Behnaz’s first collection was debuted in fall 2001.
The Target collection is called GO International fashions, and caters to the fashion-conscious “New Yorker” who wants to party “uptown” with “downtown” prices. Frankly, as a New Yoker, I am a little offended. I mean have you seen the price on that 800-square-foot Tribeca loft? Clearly someone in the Midwest has been watching too many “Sex & The City” episodes.
But Target knows what they are doing and how to market these clothes. The collection will sell perfectly to the girl next door, who has fantasies of being Carrie sans the HBO clothing budget.
There are elegant Sarafpour touches throughout this collection that make the clothes very wearable.
From jackets, to holiday dresses and t-shirts, the collection is classic Sarafpour. Her signature bow has made it onto many tops. Plenty of lace to be had for decent prices, not to mention simple cuts on tone-downed colors and fabrics. Best of all, the collection is affordable with prices ranging from $14.99-$89.99.
Now the Persian name “Behnaz” is as mainstream as Martha or Oprah! Way to go girl!
iran
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i like that white dress , itz cute :PComment
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ساعت ۱۰ شب جمعه، با نازنين همکارم راه افتاديم به سمت کلوپ رقصی به نام "آی سيس". جايی که طراحان لباس که همه جوان بودن، شو لباس يا مد رو راه انداخته بودن. ضمناً قراره تا تمام سودی که از برگزاری اين شوی لباس به دست مياد برای خيريه خرج بشه.
طراحانی که امشب اينجا نمايش لباس دارند، دو دختر دو رگه ايرانی هستن به نام های شبنم و نگين که البته دو قلو هم هستند، به علاوه يک پسر به نام سينا.
اما اول از همه با مهسا که يکی از ترتيب دهنده های اين مراسم بوده صحبت کردم:
مهسا جان، اول برامون بگو که اينجا چه خبره؟
امروز جشن ساليانه انجمن ايرانيان دانشگاه Queen Mary در لندن بود. در اين جشن ها ما ايرانی ها يا کسانی که به ايران علاقه دارند جمع ميشیم و برنامه های مختلفی رو اجرا می کنیم.
نگین، سینا و شبنم
قبلاً چه برنامه های ديگه ای داشتين؟
يک شب افطار رفتيم بيرون. برای شب يلدا هم داريم يک کنسرت سنتی ايرانی رو برنامه ريزی می کنيم. هر سودی هم که از اين برنامه ها به دست مياد به بچه های يتيم بم تقديم ميشه.
چه کسانی توی اين برنامه ها شرکت می کنن؟
بيشتر کسانی هستند که ازشون دعوت شده. ما تبليغات مختلفی انجام داديم و خيلی ها از اين راه به برنامه های ما ميان.
ورودی برنامه امشب چقدره؟
۱۵ پوند برای افراد معمولی و ۱۰ پوند هم برای اعضای موسسه.
از چند وقت قبل برای آمادگی اين کار شروع کردين؟
يک ماه و نيم پيش. اول به اين کلوپ شبانه اومديم و با رئيس اينجا صحبت کرديم. بعد از اون هم از يک طراح گرافيک کمک گرفتيم که تبليغات رو برای ما طراحی کنه. خيلی ها وقتی فهميدن که اين کار چون به سود بچه های بم هست ما رو کمک کردن.
بعد از صحبت با مهسا، رفتم پيش طراح های لباس و باهاشون صحبت کردم:
شبنم جان، بگو از کجا کار طراحی لباس رو شروع کردی؟
شبنم: از بچگی. به مادرم که خوش لباس بود نگاه می کردم. خودم هميشه عاشق لباس پوشيدن و آماده شدن بودم. امسال ژانويه اولين شوی لباسمون رو گذاشتيم و خيلی موفق شديم. در اون شو چهارهزار پوند برای بچه های بم جمع کرديم. همه ازمون خواستند که دوباره شو بگذاريم بنابراين امشب هم اين کار رو تکرار کرديم.
تو خودت درس طراحی لباس خوندی؟
نه. من فعلاً رشته بازرگانی و زبان اسپانيايی می خونم. کار طراحی رو از مادرم ياد گرفتم. حتی توی مجلات نگاه می کنيم و ايده های خودمون رو با ايده های ديگران مخلوط می کنيم.
برای امشب چند تا لباس طراحی کرده بودی؟
حدود ۴۰ طرح مختلف.
آيا خودت لباس ها رو هم ميدوزی و درست می کنی؟
بله. خودمون لباس ها رو هم درست می کنيم. بعضی رو هم که وقت نداشته باشيم به صورت ساده می خريم و خودمون روش طراحی می کنيم.
نگين جان، تو از طرح هات بگو.
نگین: طرح های من دخترونه بود. مثلاً لباس سفيد بلندی که روش پر از تيکه دوزی و اکليل بود.
سینا هم یکی دیگه از کسانی بود که اونشب طرح های پسرونه خودش رو به نمایش گذاشت. ازش خواستم که از طرح هاش بگه:
سینا: تمام مدل های من پسرونه بود. چون من از فشن و مد چيزی نمی دونم، لباس ها رو خودم ندوختم. اونها رو از مارکهای مختلف می خريدم و روشون کار می کردم.
شبنم علاوه بر اینکه لباس ها رو طراحی کرده بود، خودش هم به عنوان مدل روی صحنه می رفت و لباس ها رو به نمایش می گذاشت. ازش پرسیدم از اينکه خودش مدل بود چه حسی داشته؟
شبنم: خيلی خوب بود. چون وقتی رفتم بین مردم، شروع کردن به داد زدن و تشویق و من خيلی خوشحال شدم.
سينا تو چی؟
سینا: تجربه خيلی خوبی بود. استقبال مردم هم خيلی جالب بود. من اگر بخوام کار فشن یا مد رو ادامه بدم، اون رو به صورت بزرگتری ادامه ميدم.
سينا چند سالته؟
دو ماه ديگه تولد من هست و ۱۸ سالگيم تموم ميشه.
بعد از صحبت با بچه های طراح، رفتم پيش مهدی، يکی از مدل های سينا:
مهدی جان، تو قبلاً هم مدل بودی؟
مهدی: آره. قبلاً با نيما بهنود توی لندن کار کردم.
چطور وارد اين کار شدی؟
يک شب با دوست دخترم توی يک پارتی بودم، نيما بهنود که یک طراح معروفه ایرانیه، اونجا هر دوی ما رو ديد و بهمون پيشنهاد داد که برای شوی لباسش باهاش همکاری کنيم.
مدل شدن چه حسی داره؟
خيلی بهت توجه می کنن و اعتماد به نفست رو هم خيلی بالا می بره.
در آخر هم با مادر نگين و شبنم صحبت کردم و ازشون پرسيدم که چه خاطره ای از بچگی اين دوقلوها دارن:
مادر نگين و شبنم: حدود شش ساله بودن که در يک بعد از ظهر متوجه شدم دخترها يک سری لباس رو گذاشتند و به عنوان اينکه مدل هستن، لباس ها رو پوشيدن و بازی می کنن. از همون روزها متوجه شدم که دو قلوهای من علاقه زيادی به اين کار دارن.
iran
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A Woman Who Wore Couture Like a Second Skin
LIKE Harold Koda, the costume curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, I once visited Nan Kempner in her closet on Park Avenue, and like Mr. Koda, I observed her in all her glory. She was having a massage and insisted on standing up.
Mrs. Kempner — can we call her Nan? — seemingly had few hang-ups where her body was concerned. It’s possible she acquired this ease of attitude while growing up in California, but my guess is that, like many elegant women, she had simply taken the measure of her physical shortcomings — the too-small breasts, the flat behind, the legs that seemed to start near her sternum — and having accepted them, said, “Who cares?”
Nan, the body of Nan, is the subject of a new exhibition, “Nan Kempner: American Chic,” which opened on Tuesday at the Met’s Costume Institute. The frequently made observation that Nan, who died last year, was a clotheshorse is really no great observation, although Mr. Koda properly conveys the scope of her zeal, re-creating her closet (which was actually several converted bedrooms) with stacks of 362 sweaters and 354 jackets; shelves for feathered fedoras, brimmed straws and other hats; and larger displays for Saint Laurents, Valentinos, Balmains and Gaultiers, some 3,000 garments and accessories in all.
Nan was a rich woman, the wife of the banker Thomas L. Kempner. A $20,000 haute couture dress was no burden for her. She had great taste. If buying beautiful clothes accommodated her taste, the exhibition reveals a woman who was much less frivolous in her choices than her boundless socializing might suggest. Nan was supposedly the inspiration for the term “social X-ray.” At 5-foot-9, 110 pounds, her skin tanned to a leathery brown, she certainly invited the idea that fashion people were indeed freaks.
Yet, in looking at an impressive display of Saint Laurent suits and pants outfits — put together in recognition of her special connection to the couturier — it’s hard not to feel that at least some of their power derives from Nan’s understanding of her body and what looked best on her.
The Saint Laurent suits, from the 1970s and ’80s, were fitted on Nan and, like most Paris-made garments, probably required three fittings. While Saint Laurent’s tailoring — the sharp shoulder line, the slight drape in the front, the natural waist of the pants — owed much of its rightness to his sense of proportion, it helped that his favorite American client had long legs, a 26-inch waist and narrow, boyish shoulders.
And when you see the posse of Saint Laurent-clad mannequins, you realize as well that Nan played a more vital role in his career than merely wearing his clothes well. In Paris, the equally thin Betty Catroux, the designer’s friend and muse, represented rock ’n’ roll, decadent Saint Laurent. But Nan — Nan was the Americanized ideal. Casual, unencumbered, athletic. As Mr. Koda said, “She wore couture like sportswear.”
Nan’s first Paris original was her 1949 debutante dress, a Jacques Griffe confection of pink cotton lace with daubs and swirls of smoky violet tulle. She seemed to know early that a virtue of couture was not to give or confirm pedigree, but to take away the obvious and allow a woman to use nuance — the odd color combination or exaggerated detail — to express her personality.
In later years, married and well trained in the seasonal routine of couture shows and fittings, Nan pursued this ideal. There is a wonderful black Cardin evening dress, from 1964, with circles of silk organza layered, pastry style, around the s***t. But while she was adept at using feathers and embroidery to set off her face or introduce an element of playfulness (a pair of coral-beaded Carolina Herrera slacks comes to mind), Nan almost always maintained the same long, linear, essentially masculine line for day and evening. For this reason, you don’t see many ball s***ts or, for that matter, much Chanel. Chanel was too sweet for Nan, somehow.
Visitors to the exhibition, transfixed by the candy-shop display of sweaters and jackets (in reality, her closets were organized according to the way she mixed colors and styles), might overlook the fact that as much as Nan was committed to a credible self-reflection, she also chose two of the most audacious designers of the 20th century: Saint Laurent and Madame Grès.
iran
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The Saint Laurent showstoppers are the tailored pieces, as well as a 1983 evening cape in saffron silk faille with a queenly collar. Of the 100 or so garments that Mr. Kempner gave to the museum’s permanent collection, five are by Madame Grès, the reclusive, turban-swathed genius known for her draping. The lightness and engineering of a black spider-back dress or a rare example in olive angora jersey are mesmerizing, and the pity is you can’t touch them. The jersey runs through your fingers like water.
Given his familiarity with Nan’s closet while she was alive, Mr. Koda must have had his eyes set on one or two prizes. He thought for a moment and smiled. “I would have to say the grail for me was a pair of après-ski pants made by Madame Grès,” he said. “They were done as chaps.” Alas, the pants have never been found.
Nan belonged to an era before stylists and buzzy expressions like “aspirational dressing.” Despite the booty of her closet and the comedy of her act, she strikes me, now, as excessively restrained. I recall going one morning to the salon at Saint Laurent. It was the day after the 2001 fall couture show, and as usual the top clients had arrived early to get first dibs. Nan was there. So were Deeda Blair and Patricia Altschul, attended by their vendeuses, or saleswomen. There were a couple of cigarettes going in the ashtrays. Nan had stripped down to her pantyhose.
But there was nothing sisterly about the scene — no giggles or “Darling, that looks absolutely marvelous!” Are you kidding? These were babes at work in one of the last great mansions of haute couture, and I’ve never seen a pair of eyes settle on a cloqué velvet dress with the quite the same practiced swiftness as did Nan’s. She knew what she liked and that was all there was to it.
iran
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Iran police move into fashion business
Women in high-heeled shoes and plenty of make-up strut down the catwalk amid clouds of artificial smoke.
It is the first time live models have been allowed to appear in a fashion show in post-revolutionary Iran.
"Arab styles" failed to impress some in the fashion show audience
The only unusual aspect is they're draped from head to toe in the all enveloping chador that hides everything except the face.
It's part of a new drive to give women more attractive choices of Islamic dress that allow them to express their individuality, while remaining within the letter of the law.
Not everyone in the all female audience was happy.
"I don't think ordinary people will like this show because everything comes from Arab culture," complains Faranak who says she wants something more Iranian and indigenous.
Her friend agrees: "Here we didn't see anything interesting - in terms of colours and designs we have much better stuff; just look on the streets of Tehran they're wearing much better clothes".
'Western dolls'
Many of the women on the streets of Tehran do indeed look more like Western fashion models than the models on the catwalk.
We want to guide designers to meet the needs of society, not to get ideas about fashion from satellite television
Sardar Ansari, Iranian police force
In skimpy tight overcoats and high heeled shoes and token headscarves perched on the back of their dyed hair, they are what the authorities call "western dolls".
Many young women born after the revolution do not seem to have accepted the official idea of Islamic dress.
Conservative MP Rafat Bayat, who always wears a black chador, believes the problem is the state never educated young people properly.
"The generation born after the revolution has grown up in families that do not believe in these principles and they are estranged from these laws," she says.
"We thought there would be no problem because we had an Islamic Republic and we thought everyone knew the constitution," says Mrs Bayat with regret.
According to the law, a woman who does not cover her hair and body in public can be fined or imprisoned for up to two months.
But there are hundreds of shops throughout North Tehran selling glamorous strapless dresses and low-cut, beaded tops for women to wear at parties.
Heavy-handed
During the reformist period, restrictions were relaxed to allow women to wear bright colours for the first time since the revolution.
But right-wing conservatives are outraged by what they see as western permissiveness now creeping into Islamic dress.
Rules apply to all mature females, but interpretations differ sharply
There is also a growing awareness that heavy-handed police action like raids, arrests and closure of fashion boutiques simply do not work.
And interestingly, though he is an ultra conservative, President Ahmadinejad did not bring about the crackdown on un-Islamic dress that many feared.
"Observance of hijab has got worse since the new government because Mr Ahmadinejad is not that strict on this issue," complains Mrs Bayat.
"Mr Ahmadinejad thinks we should not use force when acting on this issue so as a result hijab has become weaker" she says.
New models
Aware that imposing Islamic dress by force hasn't worked, Iran's police decided to hold their own fashion exhibition recently to educate women about what they should be wearing - though there were no live models.
"We want to guide our designers to meet the needs of our society," explained Sardar Ansari of the Iranian police force. "We don't want them to get their ideas about fashion from satellite television."
What not to wear - according to Iran's police authorities
The police exhibition included displays about what is considered un-Islamic dress and an attempt to convert young women to wearing the chador.
For many older women it's a symbol of their commitment to the revolution. But young women are increasingly turning away from the chador - it's expensive, hot and difficult to wear.
So chador designers have come up with new models to make them more stylish and practical, for example a chador with sleeves.
"The traditional chador is a semi circle of cloth, and keeping it on your head is really hard and you absolutely have to wear something underneath - an overcoat and headscarf - to complete your Islamic dress.
"But by wearing this new type of chador it's not necessary to wear an overcoat underneath," says designer Fahimeh Mahoutchi
Increasingly there is a recognition that women - rather than men - should be the ones who decide what kind of Islamic dress they wear.
"Clothing is not something you can impose from outside; it is something you should accept willingly and instinctively," says Mrs Ghandforoush from the provincial governor's office.
"Each person has his own particular background and attitude to dress."
In other words, the establishment realises that the children of the revolution are rebelling against drab, uniform-style clothing, and it wants to keep them in line by offering a little glamour.
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Fashion factor fuels Iran's Aids fears
In a smart boutique displaying an array of minis***ts and skimpy tops, the shopkeeper was too busy attending to his female customers to listen to a sermon on HIV/Aids. "I don't know anything about it at all. Come back after I've finished with my customers," he told the volunteer health education worker.
The volunteer, Amir Fattahi, was unsurprised. Observation and experience told him he had interrupted no ordinary business transaction. The four young women, he surmised, were prostitutes striking a deal with the shopkeeper offering sex in exchange for free or cheap clothes, an increasingly common arrangement in Tehran's fashion shops.
Health education workers say the practice undermines efforts to combat HIV/Aids in Iran, where the disease is increasingly spread through sexual contact. Along with health officials they believe Iran's strict sexual mores are loosening among its predominantly young population and that pre- and extramarital sex are becoming more common. An official drive has been launched to raise HIV/Aids awareness, which lags far behind that in the west.
However, experts say the fight to stop the disease spreading is being hampered by a lack of hard facts and reliable research. While the latest figures show 13,704 registered HIV cases, World Health Organisation and Iranian health ministry estimates put the true figure at between 70,000 and 120,000. Experts believe many infected young people do not seek blood tests because they are too ill informed or are afraid of their parents finding out.
In the Qaem mall in north Tehran's affluent Tajrish district, where two floors are dedicated to women's fashion, several shopkeepers admitted to first-hand experience of receiving offers of sex. Arash, 23, said he had been propositioned 40 or 50 times in his store. "I reckon that 50% of shopkeepers have accepted sex in return for clothes," he said.
Ahmed Reza, 23, admitted having accepted such offers. "I was sitting outside the shop when two women came and said they wanted to try various manteaus [overcoats]," he said.
"They asked for a bargain and I offered them the standard discount. But they said, 'We cannot pay that - if you give us a good discount and your mobile number, we will serve you.' So I gave them more discount and got their mobile numbers.
"I can tell a prostitute by their attitudes and body language. When she asks the price of something, I say it's much more than it really is. Then I reduce it when she asks for discount, so she think she's getting a great bargain and offers sex."
Iran's Islamic authorities attempted a clampdown on the trade by deploying policemen and plainclothes security guards inside shopping malls.
"I don't think [the prostitutes] are HIV/Aids-aware," said Mr Fattahi, a team leader with Iran Positive Life, a volunteer group part-funded by Unicef.
"If they are infected and have sex with three or four shopkeepers a day, you can imagine the danger. I think most of the shopkeepers know the risk but they can't resist the temptation. Most times, the opportunity arises too quickly to take precautions."
Iran Positive Life is trying to raise shopkeepers' awareness in the hope that it will rub off on the prostitutes. Every evening, teams of volunteers tour boutiques asking shop assistants about their level of HIV/Aids knowledge. On one tour, joined by the Guardian, most of those canvassed knew it could be contracted from unsafe sex and that using condoms could provide protection.
However, experts say this awareness often does not translate into personal practice and is not passed on to prostitutes. "We have found that while people know about HIV, their information is not necessarily enough for them to use precautionary methods when engaging in sex," said the group's managing director, Amir Reza Moradi, who became HIV positive after receiving an infected blood transfusion.
"At the same time, it's hard for us to reach sex workers, so our education workers go to malls and speak to shopkeepers ... If the shopkeepers become educated and change their attitudes, hopefully the sex workers will notice and change their own ways."
Iran Positive Life's volunteers have spoken to an estimated 5,000 young Iranians in shopping centres, parks and coffee shops since the group launched its "peer education" programme three months ago. It has opened counselling services at health centres in an effort to estimate how many cases result from sexual transmission, rather than from drug addicts' infected needles - previously identified as the greatest danger.
Official resistance to a more explicitly sexual message is strong. While the government has a five-year plan to tackle HIV/Aids, its information campaigns have been criticised as inadequate. Yet the religious hierarchy apparently needs no convincing. A recent survey of 17 senior ayatollahs produced a near-unanimous response condoning condom use and in favour of educating the young on sexually transmitted diseases.
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thanks a ot ......
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گلدن گلوب و لباس ستارگان هاليوود
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مد لباس در سال ۲۰۰۷
الکساندر مک کوئين
در حاليکه روزها دارن رقته رفته بلندتر می شوند و از دوردست ها بوی بهار به مشام می خوره، می شود يواش يواش به پوشيدن لباس های سبک تر و رنگ های روشن تر فکر کرد. و به اين فکر کرد که آيا هنوز هم می شود همان لباس های پارسال را پوشيد يا اينکه بايد رفت سراغ مدل های جديد.
طراح های مد البته کاری به اين کارها ندارند و دست کم سالی ۲ بار مدل های لباس و پالتو و شلوار و کفش و غيره را عوض می کنند و هرچند وقت يک دفعه رنگ ها را هم به کلی تغيير می دهند تا ديگر به هيچ وجه نتوانيد لباس های قديمی تان را بپوشيد!
خوب حالا که سال ميلادی نو شده و فصلی تازه هم به زودی از راه می رسه ببينيم که تازه ای مد چيه. و اين بار برخلاف معمول با مدهای مردونه شروع می کنيم.
در نمايش مدی که روز ۱۴ ژانويه در ميلان برگزار شد، الکساندر مک کوئين، طراح لباس، آخرين مدل های خوش برش و خوش دوخت مردونه رو معرفی کرد. برش کت ها و پالتوها ساده نبود و تقريبا همه آنها چهار دگمه يا ۶ دگمه يا ۸ دگمه بودن.
رنگ ها اغلب روشن و ترکيبی از خاکستری و سفيد بود، هر چند در انتهای شو رنگ های تيره تر هم به آنها اضافه شد. در مدل های الکساندر مک کوئين شلوارها راسته و کمی تنگ بود و برای مدل هايی که با نيم چکمه پوشيده شده بود، شلوارها کمی کوتاه تر بودند.
و اما خانم ها، مدل های بهاره و تابستان ۲۰۰۷ برای خانم ها اغلب کوتاهند و کمر بندها بالا بسته می شوند. رنگ ها روشن اند – صورتی، تارنجی و فسفری، هم برای روز و هم برای شب. در بعضی از لباس های بهاره از تزئينات فلزی هم استفاده شده که اغلب با مهره و پولک و منجق و همراهه. و يا با تکه دوزی از رنگ ها و پارچه های مختلف طرح های مختلفی را تشکيل داده.
بعضی از طراح های لباس هم امسال سراغ لباس های محلی و سنتی رفتن. مثلا پيراهن های گوچی برای تابستان و بهار دارای نقش های سنتی اروپايی با گلهای ريزه به اشکال مختلف هندسی. همچنين دور يقه و دور کمر نوارهای نسبتا پهن داره که با طرح و رنگ پارچه هماهنگ است. کمر ها در اين نوع پيراهن ها بالا بسته می شه و رنگشون هم ساده و معمولا يکی از رنگ های پارچه است. يک سوم پائين اين پيراهن ها چين سوزنی ريز داره و يقه ها هم گرد، هفت و خشت ساده است.
بعضی از کمپانی های بزرگ هم از وقايع نه چندان خوشايند برای تبليغ لباس های جديدشون استفاده کرده ان. مثلا ديزل يک مدل پيراهن تابستانی توليد کرده که از جنس پارچه استرچ است، آستين بلند داره، يقه اش ساده ست، ازجلو دگمه می خوره ويک کمربند هم که از جنس خود لباس است روی آن بسته می شود. ديزل در تيليغ اين لباس گفته" خودتان را برای گرم شدن کره زمين آماده سازيد". که اشاره ايست به موضوع بالا رفتن درجه حرارت هوای کره زمين.
يک سری هم می زنيم به محله کاونت گاردن در قلب لندن تا ببينيم در مغازه های آنجا چی می گذره. رنگ ها و طرح هايی که در پشت ويترين های آنجا به چشم می خوره اغلب روشن و بازه و رنگ سبز زياد به چشم می خوره. رنگ های خاکستری و قهوه ای هم در بعضی مغازه ها ديده می شه.
يکی از انواع کت هايی که برای بهار وتابستان امسال مد است شبيه به لباس های بچه هاست: پايين کت کلوش و گشاده و آستين ها هم سه ربع وگشاد است. يقه اين کت ها يا گرده و يا برگردون های پهن دارد.
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نمايش طرحهای لباس جان گاليانو در پاريس
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